{"id":56413,"date":"2015-05-28T05:27:26","date_gmt":"2015-05-27T20:27:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=56413"},"modified":"2015-05-28T05:27:26","modified_gmt":"2015-05-27T20:27:26","slug":"chest-to-overhead","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=56413","title":{"rendered":"Chest to Overhead!"},"content":{"rendered":"

between my morning and afternoon surf sessions yesterday, i had a 20 minute break. i was so sleepy after surfing in the morning and eating a poke bowl and shave ice. so i parked my car at ala moana park, climbed in the back seat, and slept. i couldn’t sleep well. i woke up 3x! how? i woke up to my own snoring! 3x in the 20 minutes. haha. i must have been really tired.
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\nthen i feel fresh again. pick up Matsui-san. we drive to bowls and i could see some change in the conditions. the earlier onshore winds made it really ugly, but i felt a slight chill in the air. that means, north winds! the winds switched from straight onshore to straight offshore. nobody around! only 3 guys out at bowls, and nobody out at rock piles! so we paddle to rock piles and surf alone. look how glassy the waves are! this is called “epic conditions!”
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\nbefore we paddled out, Matsui-san told me the biggest wave he surfed in his life was chest high. i told him “today is your lucky day! the smallest wave out there is chest high.” haha. he looked nervous but i’m good at pushing people past their limits.
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\nafter 30 or so biggest waves in his life, Matsui-san felt like a reborn surfer. i was laughing after each wave he caught because i know that feeling all too well. then he would paddle back out with the biggest smile.
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\nbeen watching this turtle swim up to me every time i go to rock piles. i’m thinking about naming her. such a cute baby turtle.
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\nsince nobody was out, i thought i’d grab a few waves too. always looking for the barrel.
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\nin the soup, in the barrel.
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\nimagine coming to hawaii and all of a sudden begin challenged to the biggest waves of your life? Matsui-san did wonderful going up over the big sets.
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\nand when he couldn’t go over the waves, i taught him how to go under the waves. i swear there were some way overhead sets up to 4′. i would have been freaking out if i were him.
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\nthe afternoon was cloudy so it was pretty dark under water. look at Matsui-san diving under the hugest freak set!
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\nby the end of the 3 hour session, Matsui-san surfed like a professional. good style and good balance. this is perfect surfing!
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\ni’m sure when Matsui-san goes back to japan, the waves are going to feel tiny. good job surfer dude! <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

between my morning and afternoon surf sessions yesterday, i had a 20 minute break. i was so sleepy after surfing in the morning and eating a poke bowl and shave ice. so i parked my car at ala moana park, climbed in the back seat, and slept. i couldn’t sleep well. i woke up 3x! […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-56413","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56413","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=56413"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56413\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=56413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=56413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=56413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}