{"id":75018,"date":"2017-01-05T14:34:52","date_gmt":"2017-01-05T05:34:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=75018"},"modified":"2017-01-05T14:34:52","modified_gmt":"2017-01-05T05:34:52","slug":"locals-only-no-kooks","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=75018","title":{"rendered":"Locals Only: No Kooks!"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"img_8249\"<\/p>\n

woke up this morning to 18 degrees! omg, so cold!
\n\"img_8250\"<\/p>\n

went to check bowls, too crowded and looked weak. then went to check diamond head. 50 guys out and inconsistent. i tell Koguma-san “hey, let’s go check out my secret spot.”
\n\"screen-shot-2017-01-05-at-11-28-11-am\"<\/p>\n

we arrive at my secret spot i’ve been surfing for the past 36 years of my life. so i guess you can say i’m local here. and if you’re not local, you’re not invited. but if you’re my friend, you’re welcomed anytime. “No Kooks means No Kooks.”
\n\"screen-shot-2017-01-05-at-11-27-38-am\"<\/p>\n

to get to this secret spot, you have to hike through snake infested trails like this for 45 minutes. Koguma-san kept on asking if they’re snakes. haha.
\n\"screen-shot-2017-01-05-at-11-29-38-am\"<\/p>\n

then you jump off the mountain, paddle out 50 minutes through shark infested waters, and you’re there. it was total perfection! only had 2 other surfers out and Koguma-san couldn’t believe it. here is one of his first waves of 2017!
\n\"screen-shot-2017-01-05-at-11-29-50-am\"<\/p>\n

we took turns catching wave after wave. ended up surfing for over 2 hours and caught over 25 waves each. we ended our session with the spot all to ourselves.
\n\"screen-shot-2017-01-05-at-11-31-34-am\"<\/p>\n

i’ve gotten hundreds of barrels here throughout my life. if you make it, you will be stoked. if you don’t, you will hit the reef. i took my nephew Joshua Moniz here when he was 10 years old and he almost drowned.
\n\"screen-shot-2017-01-05-at-11-30-09-am\"<\/p>\n

awesome surfing Koguma-san. i have much more photos but can’t show it because people might find out where it is. i’ll send it to you via private email.
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no shower there so had to jump in the car, drive back out of the mountains, and borrow water from the street.
\n\"screen-shot-2017-01-05-at-11-34-13-am\"<\/p>\n

then went to pick up the family and ate at another one of my secret spots. everybody i take here loves this place.
\n\"screen-shot-2017-01-05-at-11-36-15-am\"<\/p>\n

then went to board Mayuki and did some fishing, snorkeling, whale watching, and had lots of fun! thank you Koguma-san, Akiko-san, Daigo-kun, and Rena-chan for the wonderful ocean day!
\n\"img_8280\"<\/p>\n

then drove home to yet another beautiful rainbow. i love going home to this!
\n\"img_8240\"<\/p>\n

then watched the lamb being prepared for the oven.
\n\"img_8243\"<\/p>\n

took a shower, came out, and it was done.
\n\"img_8244\"<\/p>\n

nice juicy lamb for dinner. the end to the perfect long day! it’s 7:30pm and i’m going to sleep. goodnight. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

woke up this morning to 18 degrees! omg, so cold! went to check bowls, too crowded and looked weak. then went to check diamond head. 50 guys out and inconsistent. i tell Koguma-san “hey, let’s go check out my secret spot.” we arrive at my secret spot i’ve been surfing for the past 36 years […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-75018","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/75018","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=75018"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/75018\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=75018"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=75018"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=75018"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}