{"id":90716,"date":"2018-05-23T05:03:28","date_gmt":"2018-05-22T20:03:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=90716"},"modified":"2018-05-23T05:03:28","modified_gmt":"2018-05-22T20:03:28","slug":"million-dollar-wave","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=90716","title":{"rendered":"Million Dollar Wave?"},"content":{"rendered":"

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this is the reason i tell everybody not to even try to duck dive under me. you can’t duck dive that deep!!!
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Kelly Slater’s pool cost $30 million to buy, and even more to maintain. who in the world would want to buy that??? even if i were a billionaire, i still wouldn’t but that. why? because i know if i caught one wave in that pool, i’d be bored.
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check out this amazing photo Matsu took at our secret spot in Sumatra. if i had even $1 million, i’d buy this beachfront piece of land, build a resort, and fly my best friends over all year around on a private jet. and i’d do that for 30 years. now that’s a great way to spend $30 million.
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i was out at Rockpiles yesterday and saw Chifumi-san ripping! surfing all those big and dangerous Boot Camp waves in Indo made her into a very confident surfer. no fear anymore!
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and this kid has no fear too! i love it!
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back in 1994, i paddle out to Off The Wall before the sun came up. there was only one other surfer out and i see the worlds best water photographer Chris Van Lennep swim out. i line up, i see a 8′ set coming, i see him setting up, i take off, i pull in, then i go home. two months later, i go to the nearest book store in Fujisawa and see this on the newsstand. my first Surfing Life cover shot that made my dream come true. this was my million dollar wave…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

this is the reason i tell everybody not to even try to duck dive under me. you can’t duck dive that deep!!! Kelly Slater’s pool cost $30 million to buy, and even more to maintain. who in the world would want to buy that??? even if i were a billionaire, i still wouldn’t but that. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-90716","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/90716","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=90716"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/90716\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=90716"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=90716"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=90716"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}