{"id":91479,"date":"2018-06-18T05:04:50","date_gmt":"2018-06-17T20:04:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=91479"},"modified":"2018-06-18T05:04:50","modified_gmt":"2018-06-17T20:04:50","slug":"secret-surfers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=91479","title":{"rendered":"Secret Surfers&#8230;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Screen-Shot-2018-06-17-at-2.00.06-PM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"809\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91484\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Asayama-san is becoming like me.  he just wants to surf with nobody around and enjoy the ocean.  no crowds, no hassling, no stress, and the most freedom you can imagine.  i checked Ala Moana earlier and the waves weren&#8217;t that good, so we drove 40 minutes to a spot nobody knows about.  and yes, it was perfect!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Screen-Shot-2018-06-17-at-2.09.06-PM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"813\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91480\" \/><\/p>\n<p>you can paddle out and ride anything you want.  the most freedom kind of surfing you can imagine.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Screen-Shot-2018-06-17-at-2.10.53-PM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"723\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91486\" \/><\/p>\n<p>thanks to this South swell, the waves were super nice size and super good conditions.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Screen-Shot-2018-06-17-at-2.13.21-PM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"764\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91488\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Carter&#8217;s been joining us and enjoying the freedom too!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Screen-Shot-2018-06-17-at-2.10.26-PM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"717\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91485\" \/><\/p>\n<p>i have a gopro so i can&#8217;t really shoot myself.  i want to see how i&#8217;m foiling because i want to get better.   but these selfies don&#8217;t do the job.  so Carter took my camera after this and shot footage for the first time.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Screen-Shot-2018-06-17-at-1.54.45-PM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"848\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91483\" \/><\/p>\n<p>then all i had to do was ride high.  it&#8217;s hard to believe that 6 months ago i was in the hospital, and now i&#8217;m foiling like Kai Lenny.  haha.  just joking&#8230;<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Screen-Shot-2018-06-17-at-2.11.11-PM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"719\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91487\" \/><\/p>\n<p>and Asayama-san is surfing like Kelly Slater!  and i&#8217;m not joking about that!  haha.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/IMG_5858.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91481\" \/><\/p>\n<p>passed by Diamond Head in the evening and saw some solid 6&#8242; sets!   double overhead and wild!!!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/IMG_5859.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-91482\" \/><\/p>\n<p>so i got my toy out and rode some of the most amazing waves!!!  i&#8217;m so naturally high right now i don&#8217;t know what to do with myself!!!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Asayama-san is becoming like me. he just wants to surf with nobody around and enjoy the ocean. no crowds, no hassling, no stress, and the most freedom you can imagine. i checked Ala Moana earlier and the waves weren&#8217;t that good, so we drove 40 minutes to a spot nobody knows about. and yes, it [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-91479","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/91479","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=91479"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/91479\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=91479"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=91479"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=91479"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}