{"id":94988,"date":"2018-10-05T14:36:18","date_gmt":"2018-10-05T05:36:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=94988"},"modified":"2018-10-05T14:36:18","modified_gmt":"2018-10-05T05:36:18","slug":"surfing-south-hawaii-hurricane-historic-day","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/?p=94988","title":{"rendered":"Surfing South Hawaii:  Hurricane Historic Day"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.35.55-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"718\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94990\" \/><br \/>\nyesterday surfing with Tashiro-san was the start of the Hurricane swell.  the waves were coming up way overhead and i was surprised we got out.  when Tashiro-san asked me how big the waves were, i told him only chest high.  that&#8217;s my way of calming somebody down that looks nervous.  and it worked!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.36.54-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"718\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94991\" \/><br \/>\nthen a big overhead set came and i yelled &#8220;paddle!!!!&#8221;  Tashiro-san turned around and took off on the biggest wave of his life!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.37.07-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"719\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94993\" \/><br \/>\ni was riding on the side yelling &#8220;yeahhh!!!  come to find out, that was the biggest wave he&#8217;s ever ridden!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.37.16-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"722\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94992\" \/><br \/>\nthen we caught one in and that was enough.  i&#8217;m so happy to see surfers challenging themselves.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.37.49-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"721\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94994\" \/><br \/>\na day this young surfer will never ever forget&#8230;  good job Tashiro-san!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.38.34-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"779\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94995\" \/><br \/>\nthen came to the beach and watched the love seals playing with each other.  this is a very rare encounter.  actually the first time i seen 2 playing like this.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.45.57-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"702\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94999\" \/><br \/>\nthen early this morning, only one of them left.  returning to normal.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.39.16-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"807\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94997\" \/><br \/>\nthis morning the waves were freaking huge!  when i finally made it out to the lineup, i couldn&#8217;t believe only Chizu-san was out.  she told me she was glad to see me and i know that feeling because it must have been scary out there for her.  haha.  and i knew it was getting bigger really fast.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.40.17-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"722\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94998\" \/><br \/>\nthen the perfect set rolls my way.  i turn, take off, and catch a perfect left!  i was flying down the wave so fast that i thought i was surfing the North Shore or something.  by the time i went in, the waves were 10&#8242; and out of control!<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/Screen-Shot-2018-10-05-at-7.41.32-AM.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"724\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-95001\" \/><br \/>\ni told Chizu-san and Kanda-san, &#8220;i really respect you guys for even making it out here.&#8221;  in my mind, i was thinking &#8220;i don&#8217;t think they really know how big the waves were???&#8221;  put it this way, i grew up in Hawaii my whole life and never ever seen the waves this big and powerful in my lifetime.  and if you asked some of the pro surfers that were surfing at Bowls, they would tell you the same thing&#8230;<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/IMG_8804.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-95000\" \/><br \/>\nthen went to eat a survival lunch that was much more safe.  haha.  good job Kanda-san!  lots of respect for you!  and nice to see you again Megumi-san!  your husband is very brave&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>yesterday surfing with Tashiro-san was the start of the Hurricane swell. the waves were coming up way overhead and i was surprised we got out. when Tashiro-san asked me how big the waves were, i told him only chest high. that&#8217;s my way of calming somebody down that looks nervous. and it worked! then a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-94988","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-kirby-blogs"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/94988","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=94988"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/94988\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=94988"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=94988"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/go-naminori.com\/kirbyfukunaga\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=94988"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}