if someone asks me “please teach me, i want to get better.” that’s when i change my teaching technique. i become strict, i become persistent, and i become determined. here is why: most surfers learn how to surf on their own. along the way, they pick up bad habits. bad habits that restricts them from getting to the next level. and the longer they have that bad habit, the longer it takes it fix. it’s like walking a certain way for your whole life, and somebody tells you walk another way. i see these bad habits a lot, and when i can help someone fix it, their surfing will go to another level. yes, it’s that easy.
so yesterday, Aya-san joined my boot camp. i kept on saying and doing what ever i had to do to help her break her bad habits. and after a few waves, i could see the improvements. then the frustrations turned into happiness. then the bad habits would come back, then i would be yelling and yelling. Aya-san’s been surfing for 10 years so i have to keep on her wave after wave. i almost made her cry. might sound mean, but it works. in fact, it worked! and then those tears of frustration turn into tears of joy!
when Aya-san tuned up her surfing, she surfed absolutely perfect! and when she surfs absolutely perfect, it makes me absolutely happy. look good at this photo because this is what you call perfect surfing.
and i told her “if you surf better, everything will be better. your life will be better, your work will be better, your relationships with friends will be better, and your whole world will be better. that happiness you get from surfing will just spread and make your life so great.”
thank you Aya-san for the wonderful full day of surfing and laughter. you did great! please go back to japan and spread the aloha! surf your dream.
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean. Super small.
Diamond Head chest high sets and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
South swell coming this weekend! Local Motion contest score!
Have a wonderful day!