Dangerous Gunshot America!

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check out these amazing drone photos by Todaheli! omg, i will never forget this session. big smiles, nice waves, big shark, nice friends, big memory. here is Maki-san on a very beautiful mirror wave.
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so stoked to see Takami-san catching so many good waves too. it was the 4 of us taking turns and cheering each other on. to me, that’s what surfing is all about.
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and i was lucky to get a few good ones for myself. it felt like we were on a boat trip somewhere in the other side of the world.
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Iwata-san asked me if that that island was “lion island.” and after i looked at it again good, it did look like a lion. but it’s actually called “rabbit island.”
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the best hawaiian plate on the planet. i love it!
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ate some yuke or “raw beef” the other night. the best in hawaii for sure! and bummed japan don’t serve this anymore.
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i want to congratulate Gen for catching his first Ulua! we were just talking about diving a few days ago while surfing big rights when i told him, “hey, your day will come.” and yesterday was his day. i’m so stoked for you dude!
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check out this photo Yumi-chan sent me. look good and you will see something amazing.
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yes, a rainbow around the shadow of the airplane. omg, that’s the first time i seen something like this.
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more and more police shooting people in america. and more and more people shooting police in america. it’s actually getting kind of ugly. i hope the violence will stop. seeing these images on the news makes me sick. so sick that i felt like going back 100 years in time. and that’s where i’m going right now. old school hawaii.

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