KELIA MONIZ
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- カービー福永 - Kirby Fukunaga -ハワイオアフ島出身。１９９０年から世界を巡るプロサーファーとして雑誌、TV、ラジオなど多くメディアに露出している。ハワイ大学を主席で卒業後、日本に住んでいたこともある親日家。流暢な日本語も話し、ネイティブなアロハスピリットの持ち主で世界中に仲間も多い。AM ５時には、海をチェックしてノースショアなどハワイのその日一番良いポイントでサーフする毎日を送っている。最高位のライフガードライセンスを全て取得しており、日本人観光客に向けたハワイガイドも行う。ここ数年は雑誌の表紙の撮影や水中撮影など、プロフォトグラファーとしての顔も見せる。また、スキンダイブのスキルも高く、ウォーターマンとしての評価も高い。１日１0,000人前後のアクセスがある人気サイト。ハワイと日本を結ぶサーフィン情報サイト 『 GO NAMINORI 』 の設立者でもある。今まで日本人にサポートしてもらった恩返しとして、サーファーができる東北復興支援プロジェクト 『 WE ARE ONE 』 の代表も務めている。
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Mega Swell, STD Cali, JPN Surf, Mental wai!
i had a great lunch with Akudo-san today. a super nice guy who owns a shop in tokyo called “Standard California.” always nice to see him here in hawaii!
after a fun surf in the morning, i was totally burnt out. tired of getting burnt from the sun, and tired of paddling so much. i decided to take a nap in the afternoon but when i went to check the waves again at 1:30, i couldn’t believe how good it was! so i waxed my board and had a super fun session. only one local out, and many many perfect overhead waves!!!! score! guys were getting barreled left and right. the summer swell continues!
hikaru-san took this photo of dave and i hanging out in chiba. super fun time surfing a single fin on some perfect beach break waves. i’m looking forward to this years typhoon season in japan and when i get the call, i’m there!
photos never die! i was looking at some old photos i took 3 years ago and found this one never published or never seen by anyone. this is Maoh Toda getting ready to pull into a huge barrel while Toda-san watches. this made me feel like shooting photos again! maybe swim out for some fisheye shots this week? i’m going to go get my camera ready now!
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SoHa Living Diffuser
there is a SoHa store in Kahala Mall. super popular with local people and super popular with japanese tourists.
they sell all kinds of cool shells and things to make your house feel like you’re at the beach.
the SoHa Diffuser is the best. kind of expensive but lasts for 2 years. coming home with the fresh aroma is cool.
my recommendation is the Moana diffuser oil. it contains gardenia, pikake, lilac, hyacinth, mimosa, flower, and rose. made in hawaii ne! i have one in my room and love the smell when i sleep at night, and wake up on the morning.