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Legend: Gerry Lopez

January 26th, 2015 | by kirbyfukunaga

if you’re a tourist and go to japan, go buy the JR rail pass. you can see the whole japan in a week. can’t beat that!
Yodobashi Camera in umeda is my favorite store in the whole wide world. every time i walk in there, i want everything. i play with the cameras, check out the new electronics and technology, eat, and sometimes even sleep. haha. yeah, i go to the massage chairs and get the best massages ever. 9 out of 10 times, i walk out empty handed. kind of bummed, but after a few hours pass, i realize that i don’t really need anything. a store where you have to do a lot of holding back. and if you can’t, you shouldn’t be in there.
walking through the stations just people watching. my favorite hobby in the world.
i was super stoked to join the Gentem party in niseko and see Gerry Lopez there. Gerry Lopez is a true hawaiian legend. always my idol and always the coolest most respected surfer guy in the world. Gerry loves to snowboard and has been snowboarding for decades. been all around the world but finally made it to niseko for the first time last year. this year was his second time and as i’m writing this, Gerry’s probably up the mountains right now surfing the niseko snow. i had a great talk with him and when i asked him how he liked niseko, he told me “niseko is like the north shore.” he meant niseko is the best in the world for snowboarding, as the north shore is the best for surfing. as our conversation ended, he said “West Swell, East Winds,” and smiled. for the 99.99% of the population, nobody would understand what that meant. as for me, i represent the 0.01% of the people we call surfers that know that the infamous Pipeline works best with West swells, and East winds. so referring to niseko, Gerry calls it “Pipeline.” that’s a huge statement coming from the Legend Pipeline Master!

January 25, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

January 26th, 2015 | by gonaminori


Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 8-10′ + and stormy.
South shore chest high and clean. Bigger at West wrap spots. North/East winds at 20mph.
Cloudy becoming sunny.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Kansai to Honolulu

January 25th, 2015 | by kirbyfukunaga

when i was at kansai airport last night, the check in staff saw my niseko water bottle and asked me if went to hokkaido. i said yes and told her i rode the train all the way back to kansai. she couldn’t believe it, neither could i. 6 train transfers and over 15 hours. i don’t think i will ever do that again.
thank goodness there aren’t any trains going from japan to hawaii because i’d probably take one. i was actually happy to finally see an airplane.
i get uncomfortable at times flying in airplanes because you have absolutely no control of what happens. that’s why i always go to the cockpit and tell the pilots “hey guys, please get me home safely.”
i want to get home to see the blue sky. omg, it was a picture perfect warm day today. no need thermo underwear, no need jacket, no need cap, no need gloves, no need socks. just need trunks, tshirt, and slippahs. oh, and one surfboard. i couldn’t wait to get into the ocean!
i checked diamond head first. head high and perfect! but the last thing i wanted to do was hike up and down a mountain again, so i shined it.
pulled up to bowls and had an awesome session. overhead and perfect conditions. so happy to be surfing in the ocean again. going to sleep early, wake up early, and go surf early. back to my hawaiian lifestlye that i love so much. good night and see you in the water.

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  • カービー福永 – Kirby Fukunaga -

    カービー福永 - Kirby Fukunaga -
    ハワイオアフ島出身。1990年から世界を巡るプロサーファーとして雑誌、TV、ラジオなど多くメディアに露出している。ハワイ大学を主席で卒業後、日本に住んでいたこともある親日家。流暢な日本語も話し、ネイティブなアロハスピリットの持ち主で世界中に仲間も多い。AM 5時には、海をチェックしてノースショアなどハワイのその日一番良いポイントでサーフする毎日を送っている。最高位のライフガードライセンスを全て取得しており、日本人観光客に向けたハワイガイドも行う。ここ数年は雑誌の表紙の撮影や水中撮影など、プロフォトグラファーとしての顔も見せる。また、スキンダイブのスキルも高く、ウォーターマンとしての評価も高い。1日10,000人前後のアクセスがある人気サイト。ハワイと日本を結ぶサーフィン情報サイト 『 GO NAMINORI 』 の設立者でもある。今まで日本人にサポートしてもらった恩返しとして、サーファーができる東北復興支援プロジェクト 『 WE ARE ONE 』 の代表も務めている。




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