had an amazing morning with Suzuki-san. coolest guy from Niseko. worked before at The Powder Company so he knows Tomoki-san, the boys, and even Tokura-san. small world!
waves were super fun this morning. Suzuki-san usually catches 3 waves a session in Japan, but that won’t happen with me. i told him to get ready to catch 15 or more waves. haha.
Suzuki-san also did his first cutback today. i was so stoked to see him surfing so good. we ended up surfing until his arms said “no more.”
ate some hot pho for lunch and had a great talk. thank you Suzuki-san for the wonderful morning, and thank you Tomoki-san for sending this cool surfer my way.
went back out this afternoon with a surfer who’s not supposed to be here in Hawaii so no photos. waves were super fun and during our session, an eagle ray swam right under me.
so i dove down and said hello. such a cutie!
big waves coming on the south shore. be ready for some huge barrels!
Park-san is a very happy man. super energetic and super stoked on surfing. the first wave was a big one!
Park-san was even happy after he came up from this wipeout. haha.
then he got back up and surfed the next wave perfectly.
by the end of the session, Park-san was surfing like a pro! this is absolutely perfect!
great job Park-san!
then it was Yuka-chan’s turn. her very first time surfing and very first time in the Hawaiian ocean. perfect from her first wave!
she came up laughing too. just like her dad.
on the way to the beach, Yuka-chan told me she couldn’t swim. what? really? but she ended up swimming a few times. so stoked for her!
great job Yuka-chan. please study hard in school. enjoy paradise and hope to see you in the ocean again.