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December 19, 2104 Hawaii Surf Report

December 20th, 2014 | by gonaminori

OMG, winter snow storm in Japan again! Please take care!

Good morning 6am.
North shore 6-8′ and good!
Pipeline Masters ON at 8am.
South shore waist high and clean.
20mph trade winds and sunny sky.
Going contest.
Have a wonderful day!

Last Wave @ Dark

December 19th, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

been having some amazing evening sessions since i got back from my trip. in fact, surfed 4 of the last 5 sunsets and had an amazing time. i truly believe that you must leave hawaii to appreciate hawaii. every time i come back, i love it even more than i thought i could ever love.
Screen shot 2014-12-19 at 3.14.10 PM
Naoka’s been here for almost 2 months and he’s loving it too.
Screen shot 2014-12-19 at 3.14.18 PM
just love to be in the ocean with friends laughing and smiling. and dropping in. haha.
Screen shot 2014-12-19 at 3.15.42 PM
Yuki-chan loving hawaii too. surfing into the sunsets can make you feel the connection with this wonderful island of oahu.
Screen shot 2014-12-19 at 3.22.55 PM
surfing is very dangerous. on big days, or small days, it doesn’t matter. you just have to be aware and be very careful. i almost got 3 sharp fins in my face this evening. luckily i blocked it with my hand.
Screen shot 2014-12-19 at 3.31.29 PM
surfed with the 3 girls this evening and had so much fun! it’s an incredible bond you can form with surfing and nature. watching the sunset wave after wave is amazing. uncrowded, calm, and the best moment of the day. many more sunset surf sessions to come. i might make that my daily routine because when i get home at night, i’m completely satisfied.
Screen shot 2014-12-19 at 3.32.15 PM
last wave before dark. get home 7pm, eat dinner, shower, and sleep by 9:30pm. a great healthy lifestyle. pipe masters tomorrow so going out to the north shore to watch it live. see you there!

Evening Session Again!

December 19th, 2014 | by gonaminori

Yuki-chan @ Bowls.
OMG, look at this evening from the ocean!
So freaking beautiful!!!!
I love surfing!
I love Hawaii!

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  • カービー福永 – Kirby Fukunaga -

    カービー福永 - Kirby Fukunaga -
    ハワイオアフ島出身。1990年から世界を巡るプロサーファーとして雑誌、TV、ラジオなど多くメディアに露出している。ハワイ大学を主席で卒業後、日本に住んでいたこともある親日家。流暢な日本語も話し、ネイティブなアロハスピリットの持ち主で世界中に仲間も多い。AM 5時には、海をチェックしてノースショアなどハワイのその日一番良いポイントでサーフする毎日を送っている。最高位のライフガードライセンスを全て取得しており、日本人観光客に向けたハワイガイドも行う。ここ数年は雑誌の表紙の撮影や水中撮影など、プロフォトグラファーとしての顔も見せる。また、スキンダイブのスキルも高く、ウォーターマンとしての評価も高い。1日10,000人前後のアクセスがある人気サイト。ハワイと日本を結ぶサーフィン情報サイト 『 GO NAMINORI 』 の設立者でもある。今まで日本人にサポートしてもらった恩返しとして、サーファーができる東北復興支援プロジェクト 『 WE ARE ONE 』 の代表も務めている。




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