another incredible day! left at dark and made the call. north shore! wasn’t 100% sure but 95%, so pretty sure. come to find out, we surfed the best spot!!!
the wildlife on the north shore is amazing. turtles just swim right up to you. it’s like they want me to pet them. swimming with these amazing creatures all the time teaches me how to communicate with them. yeah, turtle talk. haha.
ok, everybody was expecting the waves to drop. i thought we’d go to pipeline again but when in passed by laniakea, i seen perfect overhead waves peeling all the way across. i did a u turn, parked the car, and told Yuki-san and Ayumi-san “hurry!!! let’s go!!!” we paddle out and the waves were absolutely perfect! long waves and barreling!
Yuki-san on the first one. was stoked to see him ripping!
Yuki-san is a great surfer. super fast and smooth. i like the way he puts his Glenn Minami on the rail!
Ayumi-san caught sooooo many waves today. she kept on going, going, and going. i can’t believe how much energy this girl has!
she was practicing her cutbacks too. perfect job!
i don’t think they realize how lucky they are! the past months have been super big and out of control waves on the north shore. but these past 2 days have been flawless. totally flawless and perfect for them!
and it is totally flawless and perfect for me too! i was so happy to be surfing perfect rights today! barrels, off the lips, and lots of cutbacks!
day 1 was pipeline, day 2 was laniakea. both days surfing the famous north shore of oahu. nobody will believe them, but i sure will.
it was so beautiful out there. blue sky and very warm.
then we came back and ate the famous huge piece of prime rib! can you believe we all finished our plates? i was so full after! haha.
came back to town and went back out to the sea. it was as calm as it ever gets.
and the water was super clean.
super clean! couldn’t wait to get in.
we snorkeled and had a great time connecting with nature. a super long day again but super fulfilling! i’m sure we will all be sleeping good tonight.
going to the north shore was the best call these past 2 days. especially after looking at diamond head this afternoon. small and very slow waves. i was thinking to myself, “we scored again!” tomorrow another full day of surfing. it’s not even 7pm and i’m ready to sleep. good night.
coming in after a great surf session, taking a hot shower, and talking story with friends and family. this is what surfing is all about.
Ayumi-san was probably thinking, “did i really go out there and catch 2 waves at Pipeline and 1 at Backdoor?” yes you did girl! and you did great!
when Seth was 10 years old, we went to hang out at Yugawara with Team Wavy. so this isn’t the first time meeting. years continue, and so do new memories. my surfing world is much smaller than you think. there is a link to each and every one i met these past 40 years. and i love it.
so we come back to town, plan to snorkel and look for whales. i pull out into the ocean and my 360 degree vision kicks in. i’m looking at the waves, the people, the wind, the weather, the whales, and the mermaids all at once. i look over to a spot that is usually crowded and see nobody out? i drop anchor and tell Yuki-san and Ayumi-san, “you guys are lucky once again! hurry and jump in!”
it was just us and that beautiful thing in the background. on a friday afternoon surfing a well known spot with nobody out was a score!
Ayumi-san got so many waves. after each one, the biggest smile and saying “i’m so happy!” haha.
Yuki-san had his share at Pipeline so he just kept letting Ayumi-san go on every wave.
and she kept going, going, and going. super stoked and super happy girl.
it was time to go in for our dessert at Waiola Shave Ice. the perfect ending to a perfect day! and to think i knew Yuki-san since he was 6 years old? omg! so happy to see him grown up, mature, a good surfer, with a beautiful wife, and a bright future. i wish you guys the best!