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Surf Marathon Day!

October 23rd, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

I had an amazing day with these 3 cool surfers from Nara! Rikita-san, Toshimi-san, and Norihiko-san love surfing so much that we surfed for 6.5 hours today. The waves were so perfect all day long. Another south swell making this summer really endless. I’m totally sunburnt and tired. I bet you anything that that are already sleeping by now. Had so much fun surfing and eating all day. Have some photos to download but my eyes are closing. Be back bright and early tomorrow morning as the waves will guarantee be good again. Thank you to my 3 new surfer friends for the great memories. Keep on surfing and see you again someday! Aloha and goodnight.

Day 4: Cobra’s Left, Kimura Barrel, and Red Sky.

October 23rd, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

day 4. wake up at treasure island. small waves so we turned the corner and checked out Cobra’s. super perfect left barrels and ripping walls. super stoked.
caught some good waves, then went on the beach to pick shells.
thought how stupid i was to be picking shells when the waves were perfect.
paddled back out and got barreled.
some freak 5′ sets and the new swell started to show. everybody getting good waves.
surfed from early morning till 12pm. no breakfast for me but my stomach was full of waves.
Kimura-san with the best barrel. Matsu ripping. James with the set of the day. Travis on many many waves of the day. Maki charging. Takami-san on some big ones too. lots of shells and lots of waves.
Kyle dive class starts at noon. good and important information for everyone.
then free diving after. Kyle and Travis got Uku’s. and Travis also got a nice Mu.
the boys surfed in the evening but little onshore. waves picking up as we seen the most amazing sunsets i’ve seen in a while.
Cathy’s spicy poke class. awesome appetizer session.
dinner and early sleep at 8:30pm. so tired.

here’s one day’s lunch. fried chicken and nasi goren.
appetizers and bintang time. spicy tuna hand rolls. every night.
Kimura-san’s 7/11. he brought so many good snacks from japan! at the end, it was all gone.
and this was the red sunset i was taking about. coming in from a surf, sipping on a bintang, and enjoying the moment with friends. a great way to live a dream life.


October 23rd, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

Shin-san and Gorden Hansen in Japan now! Keep surf. Keep TSSC!

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  • カービー福永 – Kirby Fukunaga -

    カービー福永 - Kirby Fukunaga -
    ハワイオアフ島出身。1990年から世界を巡るプロサーファーとして雑誌、TV、ラジオなど多くメディアに露出している。ハワイ大学を主席で卒業後、日本に住んでいたこともある親日家。流暢な日本語も話し、ネイティブなアロハスピリットの持ち主で世界中に仲間も多い。AM 5時には、海をチェックしてノースショアなどハワイのその日一番良いポイントでサーフする毎日を送っている。最高位のライフガードライセンスを全て取得しており、日本人観光客に向けたハワイガイドも行う。ここ数年は雑誌の表紙の撮影や水中撮影など、プロフォトグラファーとしての顔も見せる。また、スキンダイブのスキルも高く、ウォーターマンとしての評価も高い。1日10,000人前後のアクセスがある人気サイト。ハワイと日本を結ぶサーフィン情報サイト 『 GO NAMINORI 』 の設立者でもある。今まで日本人にサポートしてもらった恩返しとして、サーファーができる東北復興支援プロジェクト 『 WE ARE ONE 』 の代表も務めている。