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Mega Japan/Hawaii Typhoon Season!

September 5th, 2015 | by kirbyfukunaga

i stayed up super late last night watching the season opener University of Hawaii football game on TV. i use to go to all the games with my college friends and yell our heads off. now, my good friends son is playing so i want to support they kid and the team again. so don’t be surprised if you see me back at the aloha stadium on saturday nights yelling my head off! by the way, we WON last night! go #47 Kaiwi Chung!
another day of excellent waves around the whole island. swells coming from every direction with light winds! hawaii is the place to be.
check out Sandy Beach! OMG!
come next tuesday, the police will clear up all the homeless in kakaako. it’s a new law that prohibits tents on the sidewalks. i know there are some people that won’t leave so expect trouble come tuesday.
had a super good time surfing with Hashimoto-san. when ever he comes to hawaii, the waves are huge! this morning some big waves but Hashimoto-san surfed it well! it was another day of boot camp surfing. big waves, big rides, and big smiles.
then it was off to Cafe Kaila. can you believe i ate practically all of this? we were planning to eat shave ice for dessert but there was no way it would have fit into our stomachs.
blueberry and strawberry pancakes! great surfing today Hashimoto-san! see you sunday, monday, and tuesday for more big days of boot camp surfing.
diamond head at lunch was as beautiful as it gets. super good waves and not too many surfers out. 33 C and freaking hot!
eyes on the next typhoon forming off to the east of japan. been getting calls from people from hawaii that want to chase it. i tell them “why go to japan and surf typhoon waves when we have typhoon waves right in our backyard?” and more coming! not for me, i ain’t moving till all these rare hawaiian typhoon waves are long gone.


September 5th, 2015 | by gonaminori

Solid 5′ South Swell!
Good conditions and many waves!
So fun!!!

Almost Forgotten: July Japan

September 5th, 2015 | by kirbyfukunaga

another trip, another forgotten post? time is just flying so i don’t even remember what was what and when was when. these are photos from my July trip to japan chasing typhoon 12. seems like years ago!!!
the first good day of the year and i was stoked to be a part of it. check out how perfect the waves were!
Screen Shot 2015-07-23 at 11.41.21 AM
had a super good time surfing with Matchi everyday. we’ve been chasing typhoons for 23 years so it’s just another wave produced by another typhoon. nice bottom turn Matchi!
Screen Shot 2015-07-23 at 11.42.32 AM
if there were another place i’d want to live in besides hawaii and japan, it would have to be here inside the tube. i can’t get enough.
Screen Shot 2015-07-23 at 11.43.57 AM
surfing secret local spots with absolutely no tourists. opps, except me. it took me 23 years to figure it out and i’m still learning. but the most important thing in surfing heavy localized spots in the world comes down to two words, RESPECT LOCALS.
imagine pulling up to this spot with nobody out? i seriously had to look around and see if someone was playing a joke on us or something. it was no joke as Matchi and i were exchanging barrels after barrels. i still can’t believe how lucky we were.
Screen Shot 2015-07-23 at 11.44.40 AM
and always stoked to surf with my beautiful friend in japan. what a small wonderful world we live in!

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  • カービー福永 – Kirby Fukunaga –

    カービー福永 - Kirby Fukunaga -
    ハワイオアフ島出身。1990年から世界を巡るプロサーファーとして雑誌、TV、ラジオなど多くメディアに露出している。ハワイ大学を主席で卒業後、日本に住んでいたこともある親日家。流暢な日本語も話し、ネイティブなアロハスピリットの持ち主で世界中に仲間も多い。AM 5時には、海をチェックしてノースショアなどハワイのその日一番良いポイントでサーフする毎日を送っている。最高位のライフガードライセンスを全て取得しており、日本人観光客に向けたハワイガイドも行う。ここ数年は雑誌の表紙の撮影や水中撮影など、プロフォトグラファーとしての顔も見せる。また、スキンダイブのスキルも高く、ウォーターマンとしての評価も高い。1日10,000人前後のアクセスがある人気サイト。ハワイと日本を結ぶサーフィン情報サイト 『 GO NAMINORI 』 の設立者でもある。今まで日本人にサポートしてもらった恩返しとして、サーファーができる東北復興支援プロジェクト 『 WE ARE ONE 』 の代表も務めている。




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