Golden Surf and Blue Dive

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been surfing with the sunrise for a lot of mornings this week. there’s no where else i’d rather be to start off my beautiful day, just like today!
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before we paddled out, i told Oshima-san “when you surf today, imagine how much fun Ojiro-kun had surfing yesterday. put that picture in your mind and enjoy your last day of surfing.” from the first wave, it was happy surfing!
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Oshima-san surfing super good! i was so stoked to see him enjoying every ride.
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then the set of the day came. i yelled “GO!” and this turned out to be the best ride of the day! head high and perfect all the way!
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can’t beat this smile. this is what you call “pure stoke!” same smile Ojiro-kun had yesterday. haha. thank you Oshima-san for the wonderful days of surfing. hope you had a relaxing flight back to japan after our surf. take care and see you again!
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gosh, can you believe i was in the water from 7am to 12pm again? can’t complain when you’re enjoying it with such cool people. this is Sheana the dawn patroller!
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after Saori-san and i surfed mid-morning, we went for a snorkel in the afternoon.
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this girl is going to be a surfer/amasan. i think she’s hooked! haha.
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been craving a nice steak so i went shopping to get a nice steak.
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fried it up and it was freaking amazing!
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also been craving some japanese ramen, so i cooked some japanese ramen.
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i still can’t believe how smart the japanese package their food. it’s so simple, and so perfect.
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i left my house at 6:30am and got home at 5:30pm. it was a long day of fun. i’m so tired now. going out to eat some sushi, come home to sleep, and do the same thing tomorrow. life is good. have a beautiful evening!

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How to Surf: Fear to Fun

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got some priceless photos from yesterday. if they had a father and son lookalike contest, i think Oshima-san and Ojiro-kun would win.
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teaching surfing is the easy part. teaching how to be comfortable in the ocean is the hard part. most kids totally freak out. the trick is to turn fear into fun. i try to stay as close as possible so the kid knows he’s safe. then turn a freaky situation into a fun one.
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and when you can get the kid to laugh from fear, he won’t be afraid in those situations anymore.
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if i were to teach any kid or adult the perfect style of surfing, this would be the classic example. Ojiro-kun is only 8 years old and probably has the best style i’ve ever seen. his arms, his knees, his foot placement, his eyes, and his confidence is absolutely perfect. so if you all want to have the perfect style, ask Ojiro-kun how.
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at the end of every wave, Ojiro-kun jumps off laughing. this is how to have fun in the most exciting amusement park.
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great job kid! you’re a great example of a brave stylish surfer.
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Saori-san is always smiling. and once again, she wanted to catch the bigger waves so we went to the outside.
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this wave was pretty big! Saori-san surfed it well until it exploded from behind and covered her whole body. an awesome attempt.
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staying in control and coming out of the soup.
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Oshima-san caught some huge waves in the afternoon. i was so stoked to see him charging and making them all!
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and now that we have some size in the swell, it’s so easy to bottom turn. look at the beautiful spray coming off the back outside rail of the board.
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and another angle of the bottom turn spray. perfect surfing Oshima-san. had an awesome time with your family again. see you again today!

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