Tuesday October22日 2024年

Locked and Loaded

You can tell when the winter season has officially started because of the weather.  No winds all this week, cloudless mornings, and the weather is changing.  I hope there will be a lot more no wind days like today because that’s the surfers dream.  Check out Abe-san surfing under the stars with the first light starting to show.

Surprisingly, the waves were much bigger than yesterday.  Only a few locals out this morning and it was fun!  Abe-san caught so many good and long rides.  

The conditions were smooth like a morning in Indonesia.  Magic board and good surfer results in good rides and big smiles.  

The water at Bowls is usually dirty but today was the cleanest it will ever get.  After seeing this, I came in, texted the boys, and made a plan for tomorrow.  

I went to the dive shop and had another custom rubber made.  I’ve been using only 2 rubbers until now but tomorrow will be the start of 3 rubbers.  Hopefully that results in stronger power and longer distance.  That fish that sometimes gets away will hopefully not get away anymore.

I can’t wait to use this.  The plan is to hunt big pelagic fish in the deep blue sea.  I hope I can sleep tonight because I’m pretty excited!

October 21, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Ocean trash…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Not in Hawaii

Just the local uncles out this morning again.  Slow waves but perfect if you have the right surfboard.

Ojiro-kun looking super good today.  He’s gradually making his way down to his goal, which is to shortboard.

Perfect style and perfect smile.

Ojiro-kun asked me how he can paddle faster.  I told him, “get off your board and swim in.”  Experiences like this is the only way to build padding muscles.  He ended up swimming all the way in.  Not too many surfers can swim that far without giving up.

Straight back out for Round 2 with Kaneko-san.  We were working on his backside surfing as it will only make his frontside surfing better.

Super cool guy that surfs in Chiba.  He couldn’t believe how far out to sea we were.  In Chiba, you can literally walk out to the surf break.  Not in Hawaii.

Good rides on a magic board.  Another epic day in Hawaii!