Journey:  Don’t Stop Believing…

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to fly.
Have a wonderful day!

i’ve been buying and selling boats for 35 years.  what ever it took me to get out into the ocean to dive and surf, i dreamt it, and did it.  lots of guys with other boats use to laugh at us because we use to go out so far with the smallest boat.  it would be rough, but as surfers, we would somehow survive, and always bring home dinner.  it was a fun journey and i don’t regret a thing.  all those memories of some friends catching their first fish, and all those memories of many friends throwing up after getting seasick.  it was all a great learning experience…

now, i’ll never buy or sell a boat ever again.  this one i’m dying with.  to all my friends that caught their first fish, rode their biggest wave, swam with dolphins, watched whales, got to explore the other islands, and who got seasick, the journey continues…

i tell people:  if you haven’t foiled in a while, you should go slow and take it easy on your first wave back.  just go extra slow so you can reconnect with your equipment and the ocean.  so that’s exactly what i did on this first wave back.  i went slow and reconnected.  it felt smooth and great so i was looking forward to my next wave.

my next wave, forget about going slow.  i went full throttle and thought i was Kai Lenny.  then at the most unexpected time, i fell.  not an ordinary fall either, it was a head over heals fall.  i’m surprised my foil didn’t slice my throat.  next time i don’t foil in a long time, i will be extremely careful on my first and second wave.  it’s pretty funny because i always tell people to slow down and here i am trying to go faster.  haha…