Balance is everything.

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was a beautiful sunrise early this morning.  Calm ocean and perfect waves once again.

Hashimoto-san on his first warm up wave.  Feeling the surfboard, getting your body loose, and getting the blood flowing.  

Two days ago, Toda-san gave Hashimoto-san some advice.  He said “you have to paddle harder!!!!”  Ever since then, Hashimoto-san has been paddling harder and harder.  Now he’s catching the majority of the waves he paddles for.  Catching more waves means you get more practice.  And when you get more opportunity to practice, you will surf better and better.  This is the best off the lip I’ve seen him do so far.

We were waiting for our last wave of the day.  Then a perfect Bowls wave came right to us.  Hashimoto-san rode it perfectly from start to finish.  After he rode it all the way in, he told me “that was the best wave of my life!”  He paddled in a very happy surfer of the day…

Yesterday once more:  Hanging 10!

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!