it’s pretty bad to get stuck in traffic at 4:30am on the way to the North shore.  i didn’t want to be late to my appointment!!!

luckily i made it on time and when we got out, the waves were perfect.  another 4 hour session.  super stoked to see John Amundson flying super fast.  John is the first foil board shaper on the island of Oahu.  he shaped my first 5 foil boards and i’m super grateful for his boards that started my new beginning!

omg, it tried this beef tendon mien and it was excellent!

little boy namaste…

when Joshua and Seth were little kids, they use to come over to my house and help me out with chores.  this day, they crawled under my house to take out all the surfboards.  i didn’t realize how many i had under there.  this was when i had more surfboards than them.  now they have way more than me.  haha.

check out Isaiah helping me pull out the big yellowfin ahi out of the cooler bag.  that was a great memory.

when we can start traveling the world again, i’m hoping to go on a boat trip somewhere in the Indian Ocean.  Takami-san and Toda-san are the best travel buddies because they just go with the flow.  i can’t wait to travel with you guys again!  

this was my luggage when i went on a 2 week trip to the Maldives.  and this is my luggage i need to survive for the rest of my life.  traveling makes you realize how little you really need…

Good morning 3:20am.
North shore 6′ and super good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light trade winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!