Tuesday October4日 2022年

So Live Today

North Korea fired another missile over Japan.  i’m not surprised at all in the world we live in now.  everyday there’s something new about another world leader getting aggressive.   maybe every world leader should learn how to surf.  then instead of destroying the world, they might want to protect it.

and what can us normal people do about this whole war thing?  absolutely nothing.  so may as well live in the present which is today, and don’t worry about tomorrow.  at this rate, who knows if tomorrow will even come…

when you’re in the ocean, nothing bothers you.  so yes, if a missile is headed towards us, this is where i hope to be when it lands…

Thank you Watermark

Back in the Day:  Thank you Vonzipper

October 3, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Everybody hungry for the new South swell…

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest to shoulder high and good.
Trade winds back at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!