Thank you for that wave!

Full moon surf this morning at Bowls.  Small but fun if you had the right surfboard.  

Today’s lesson was about timing.  Paddling for the wave and standing up at the perfect time.  Turning the board while going down the wave with style and grace.  

Also keeping calm and going with the flow.  Just like this.

And being able to jump on a longboard on one wave, and a short board on the other.  That takes talent and the girls have that mastered.

Yes, I had to give the girls scoldings but after 20 waves, they finally figured it out.

Leading by example is how I teach.  If I can’t do it, then how am I supposed to teach them how to do it?  So all the waves they miss, I catch it, surf it how I want them to surf it, pull out, then paddle back out and say “Thank you very much for that wave you missed.”  

Yesterday foiling, today surfing a mid-length and loving life.  I hope I don’t have to scold the girls tomorrow and if they miss any waves, you know who will be on it.  Haha.

Set her Free

Had an amazing time with the Fukuzaki-san family.  A surfing experience like this will be etched in 9 year old Riku-kun’s mind forever.

This sailboat tried to go out of the channel at night and missed the channel marker.  Why?  I don’t know.  It was stuck on the reef all day long but thankfully when the king tide filled into the afternoon, it set her free.

But not before damaging the coral.

Thank you Allen for keeping your eyes on the girls.  This is an amazing photo you captured!

Teaching kids about the ocean is more important than teaching them about surfing.  You won’t and can’t learn things like this in school.  This is real, this is nature, this is hands on experience, and this knowledge will last a lifetime.

Well, no swells on the way so we’re getting ready to hunt for food.  Fish and tako on the way!

July 22, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Small waves equal big crowds…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!