Clear Days Ahead…

Good morning 4:50am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i went to check out the new Kahala Market by Foodland today.  i was very excited because it looked huge!

very clean and very brand new.  when i walked in, i was expecting it to be like huge Whole Foods.  but instead, it was very small, and very expensive.  i didn’t even bother to take photos because i wasn’t impressed at all.  it took me one minute to walk around the whole store and i left.  i was pretty disappointed… 

i went to Diamond Head today.  when i look at the ocean as a surfer, i look for the best wave and imagine me on it.  but when i look at it as a foiler, i imagine me riding every single swell on one ride.  so i could basically catch every swell if i wanted to.  that’s my kind of waves!

i was playing with Keahi yesterday.   he’s very rough, very strong, and very wild.  i think he’s the next BAMM BAMM!

remember this kid from the Flintstones?  this is Keahi!!!

Jurassic’s is like Disneyland for a surfer.  there are lots of people from all walks of life having a great time.  Barton Lynch is from Australia, knows where the best waves are, but you can find him here on any good day.  the parking lot gets full, the lineup gets crowded, but it’s all worth it.  after 7 days of that, i was hoping it got flat again.  then i can go back to my slow life.  and it did…

i would pay thousands of dollars and travel half way around the world for a session like this.  nobody out, perfect waves, and foil fever.  after a week at Jurassic’s, this is exactly what i needed.  my little boat trip party!  balance is everything…