We were driving down the mountain this morning and I could see the waves breaking so perfectly.  Just like yesterday, my heart started pumping and I was so excited.  I surfed here before so I knew it was going to be epic!  My first wave was blinding.  It was so windy offshore that I couldn’t see a thing taking off on the waves.  I just paddled my hardest and let the muscle memory do the rest.  Gosh, it felt so good catching a wave I knew was going to break perfectly for a very long time!  

This wave is so perfect that it’s like a dream wave.  You’re going full speed and the wave keeps on going and going.  There is no wave comparable to this in Hawaii and if there were, there would be a thousand surfers fighting for it.    

After multiple trips to Taiwan over a three decade span, this was the best waves I ever scored here.  You never know what to expect and when you get something like this, it’s a beautiful thing.      

I came in after Round 1 and we paddled right back out for Round 2.  OMG, Kimura-san caught a pretty big wave and rode it right over the sharp shallow reef right over the rocks.  I closed my eyes watching that because I knew he was going to get hurt.  Thank goodness his wetsuit saved his life.

OMG! The Asian Uluwatu is going off right now! Perfect offshore lefts peeling forever!

I’ve been wanting to come to the Taroko National Park for years.  It’s been on my bucket list and this past April, I was supposed to do this exact same trip down the coast of Taiwan.  Stopping off here was a priority.  BUT, days before that trip, a huge earthquake shook the mountains and created landslides everywhere.  We had to cancel that trip because the roads were closed.  Now 7 months later, you can still see the damage everywhere you look.  I drove up early this morning and couldn’t believe it.  It looked like a war zone!  There were no cars, no tourists, and nobody.  I drove deep into the gorge and was actually scared.  Scared of rocks falling because there were many big loose boulders in the middle of the road.  The guard rails were all smashed, twisted, and gone in some areas.  Thus exposing 2000′ vertical cliffs that freaked me out.  The whole time I was driving, I was praying a rock doesn’t fall on me, and praying I didn’t fall off the cliff.  It was really scary.  

Another thing that was so creepy was the normally clear emerald color water was dark gray.  In fact, everything was dark gray looking which made it look like it got bombed.  After driving over an hour in the park dodging boulders, I made it out safely.  Come to find out, the park was still closed.  OMG!  I have lots of photos of the craziness I saw.  Soon after that, I went driving down the coast looking for a knee high wave so I could cleanse my mind…

It was bigger than knee high.  There were only 2 other surfers out and we were all scoring.  I use to chase typhoons for a living but now this one chased me.  This trip was planned a long time ago and Typhoon Usagi popped up and decided to send some waves.  I’ll take anything Mother Nature gives me.  BUT, I’ll probably never go to Taroko National Park again.  I’m seriously traumatized.  After I caught my first wave, I felt like the ocean cleansed me.  I’m not a mountain man.  

Even thought it’s not barreling, I’m looking for one.  

And if there isn’t a barrel, there is always an off the lip.  

Beef noodle soup after a great surf session.  Can’t beat it!