Today I felt like surfing without a crowd so I chose to go to Diamond Head.  When I pulled up, there were only 2 surfers out.  Why?  The waves were so good!  I put on my trunks, waxed my board, and ran down the mountain.

Right as I was to jump in, I remembered there was a shark attack yesterday out there.  Now I get it.  That’s why nobody wanted to surf out there.  It turned out to be the most peaceful surf sessions I had in a very long time.  Yes, there are sharks out there, and there are sharks everywhere.  Remember, sharks can swim.

I surfed 2 rounds yesterday at Ala Moana for 3 hours.  Tight lineups and crowded.  Today was different.  A very big ocean with lots of space to myself.  Today’s session felt a hundred times better.  That’s the power of Diamond Head.

Yesterday once more:  The first big south swell has arrived!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana 3-5′ and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The start to another beautiful day.

Round 1:  When I paddled out around 5:15am, the waves were still small.  The ocean was calm but you could feel the energy of the new swell.

Gen Asano was out practicing for the contest.  The waves started to get bigger quickly.

I had my camera trying to take photos.  Then behind this wave were 5 big sets.  I tried to go under and the wave picked me up and slammed me and my board down to the reef.  It was so powerful.  Then I dodged 5 more sets and when I looked around, I was out past the red buoy.  I couldn’t believe how fast the waves came up!

Right as I got in, lifeguards spotted 2 aggressive sharks in the lineup.  They still ran the contest.  I think that’s very risky considering there were little kids in the contest.  And around the corner at Diamond Head, somebody got attacked by a shark.  What a crazy morning.

Round 2:  My first session of the year at Big Rights!  So happy to be back at surf spot i feel very comfortable at.  It feels like home.

There was a balloon getting blown out to sea.  I see people trying to take it in like that but it’s very difficult.

The easiest way is to grab it, pop it, and put it in your trunks or bikini.

Just like this.  Please keep our oceans clean.