I went to look at Diamond Head this morning and it was super small.  The biggest sets were stomach high but very long rides.  There were only a few surfers out and it looked fun.

So I get back in my car, take a long drive, and arrive at my secret spot.  The rocks were so slippery but I couldn’t wait to surf because it was only me again!  Thank goodness I didn’t fall.  I was so excited to try out Joshua Moniz’s board.

When I first paddled out on it, it felt like a toothpick.  It was very narrow and thin that I had a hard time balancing on it.  But once I took off on my first wave, it felt like magic.  Very sensitive and very responsive.  I felt like a teenager again!

I went out this morning to challenge myself so that’s why I took this board.  Surfing felt so alive again!

HIC shaped by Kerry Tokoro.  OMG, Josh is going to have a hard time getting this surfboard back from me.  Haha.  I’m definitely going to try it on better waves.

Came home to a beautiful rainbow.  Rain, sun, showers, and clouds.  I love winter in Hawaii!

The Owaki-san off the lip!

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I usually let my wax build up for many years before I scrape it off.  But once I do, the board feels fresh again.  It has a lighter feeling that brings it back to life again.

I had to take a drive to look for waves this morning.  I had a feeling where to go and when I arrived, it looked a lot better than I thought.

I kind of got excited and was on my first wave in less than a minute.  With nobody around, it turned out to be the best session I had in a while.  To surf a spot on a Sunday by yourself is a treat.

I stayed out a lot longer than I usually do.  As a surfer, it’s very hard to go in when you have the whole ocean all to yourself.  Now is the season where you have to move around.  Ala Moana won’t be good everyday like it is in the summer.  You have to drive around and search for that perfect wave.  And once you find it, it’s very rewarding…