Round 1:  A new south swell at Bowls.  Chest high sets and perfect conditions.  Lots of waves and lots of good rides.

Mighty Mouse on her 5’11 and flowing.

Flowing into the perfect conditions.

And a nice turn.  Great surfing today!

Round 2:  Secret spot was so good.  Head high sets and long rights and lefts.  Scored again!

Dove for life…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Mohan waist to chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light off shore winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm after a cool morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

After surfing in the morning, we went for an afternoon free dive.  The water was crystal clear!  I dove down and saw this huge moray eel come out of his hole and try to bite my spear.  Scary!  Photo by Mighty Mouse.

This morning was very stormy!  We drove around and around looking for the best spot and once we found it, we realized how lucky we were.  Shoulder high sets and nobody around.  It was great practice for Mighty Mouse!

We ate lunch and went back out.  Head high sets for Mighty Mouse.  It felt so good to be in the big ocean with the strong currents, powerful waves, and long rides.

I was very proud of Hashimoto-san on this epic day on the North Shore.  All the practice we’ve been doing at Bowls has finally shined.  Perfect muscle memory so everything looked so smooth and easy for him.

The biggest wave of his life so far but next year we’re going to go bigger!  Can’t wait!

Deco-san was charging too!  I couldn’t believe some of the waves she took off on.  Very impressed!

It’s always a pleasure to surf with Tokura-san.  When he was 60, I told myself “I want to be like that when I’m 60.”  And now he’s 76 and I’m telling myself “I want to be like that when I’m 76!”

It’s every surfers dream to be able to surf in their 70’s.  But to surf the North shore at that age is a dream of a dream…