Sunday June26日 2022年

Old School and Cool

there were a lot of box jellyfish in the water this morning but i only found out after i sent my student out in a bikini.  so i thought that it wouldn’t be cool if i wore my wetsuit for protection.  after all, we are a team.  and luckily none of us got stung.

imagine box jellyfish everywhere and waves like this?  lots of surfers didn’t go out, but i would risk getting stung for waves like this any day.  high risk, high reward.

people wonder why i take a lot of photos of bodyboards.  it’s because i was once a bodyboarder.  and i still think the drop knee is “old school and cool!”

it’s pretty funny because we were the only ones without a wetsuit top.  all my friends that came out said “you guys are crazy!”  nothing new as i heard that many times before.

most people get stung right here when they enter the water.  so when i paddled in this morning and watched the rainbow, i thought to myself i wasn’t safe until i’m actually back on the beach.

by the afternoons, the box jellyfish either melt, or get blown off shore with the winds.  so it was time for some surf lessons.  i had a blast with the coolest family!

One in a Million Slip

taking photos like this is kind of tricky.  i actually have to take off behind a surfer and ride the wave from behind while holding my camera straight.  we’re going pretty fast so lots of things can go wrong.  but the worst is if the surfer falls.  if that happens, i’m in big trouble…

it’s all about trust.  i trust the people i teach because they know how to keep calm.  if someone was riding behind me with their surfboard and camera, i’d probably freak out and fall.  haha.  anyway, the reason why nobody is falling in front of me is because they don’t know i’m actually there.  silence is golden…

this last swell, i was paddling out and saw one of the best empty barrels i’ve ever seen in town.  it was way overhead and barreling like Backdoor.   it was totally perfect and the only thing i could think of was “i wish i was in there!!!”

i could have been standing tall in that barrel.  but now that i saw that one in a million wave, i’m going to look for it more often.  and someday i will be standing tall in that barrel.  i guarantee that.

talking about behind and backdoor, i walked down my slippery driveway and slipped and fell right on my ass.  maybe it was me being so tired after a long day?  maybe it was my cheap Bali slippers failed?  or maybe it was i was in a rush???  it was probably all of the above.   i better slow down because i haven’t slipped like that in 20 years…

June 22, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

EPIC!

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!