I got a few boards from a friend that were made for easy paddling, easy take off, and easy surfing.  I can take off on any wave from knee high to triple overhead pretty easily.  So I ride it only when it’s super small or super big.  This day was super small so it made surfing really fun.

Once this board starts to go, it goes pretty fast and is very stable.  Faster than a short board and faster than a longboard.  The perfect one!

Thank you Neal Miyake for the photos.  Always good to fly by you!

Hot sun, good surf, and juicy watermelon…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

When I woke up at 3am this morning, I noticed the winds were calm.  That meant a perfect day for a boat trip.  Toda-san and Takami-san have been on many of these.  Today was special because it was only us out in the big beautiful ocean.  Perfect waves, glassy conditions, and nobody around for miles and miles.  It felt like we were somewhere deep in Indonesia.

As we passed by Bowls, we were all thinking the same thing.  “Not this today!”

While we were surfing, this weird unmanned submarine looking thing came zooming by us.  It was pretty scary because I don’t think this machine saw us surfing.  It could have been some kind of new military technology?

I had a nice tako sitting in my freezer for a couple months.  I caught it for my fisherman friend who requested one for bait.  He still didn’t pick it up so I cooked it.  And yes, it came out tender and juicy.  I still haven’t tasted tako this delicious before.