Alan’s been out swimming everyday and shooting photos. So when I see him, I try to push a little harder so I can learn something. By the time I get home, I already received the photos from him.
I tried to slow it down and hit the lip with a little more power than usual. That’s the key to throwing big spray from behind. It’s not about speed, it’s about flow.
OMG, did you see this big crocodile that was swimming in the lineup in the Mentawai’s? I surfed HT’s many times and didn’t even know there were crocodiles there. If I saw that after pulling out of a barrel, I would have a heart attack. That’s crazy! 
15 years ago, I drove by the river in Kailua and saw this beautiful custom boat docked in front of a multimillion dollar house. I took this photo, then drove around the river, parked my car, and knocked on the front door. The owner came out and I asked if I can check out his beautiful boat. I said to him “that’s my dream boat, how can I get one?” I actually asked him if he would sell his boat to me and he laughed and said “no way! get your own.” Haha. I got the contact, I called the maker, and ordered a custom boat just like that. It’s crazy how “love at first sight” works…
