Pure Hawaiian

8

We’ve been having some intense boot camp.  Some days I’m nice, but most of the days I’m not.  But I’m coming to find out that when I’m not nice, I see better results.  Nakahodo-san’s surfing at a different level now.  So yeah, not being nice seems to be working.    

Nakahodo-san has my hat, my board, my fins, and my wetsuit.  I told him that I want everything back and he said “no!”  Haha.  I’ve never seen him happier than he has these past 2 days.  

Toda-san caught some really nice sets today.  Good to see him surfing every single morning.  Healthy and happy life.

Scott ripping on his new Tokoro.  Look how good the conditions were this morning.  

We went back out for Round 2.  Super high tide and very nice waves.  

I think I’m in love with Hawaii.  

Went to check out the University of Hawaii.  Every time I come here, I get chicken skin.  All the great memories come back.  

And seeing this mural still gives me chicken skin.  

Tony Moniz’s grandma Naki from Molokai.  Whenever I go to Molokai, I hear the amazing stories about her.  Pure Hawaiian!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide