day 4. wake up at treasure island. small waves so we turned the corner and checked out Cobra’s. super perfect left barrels and ripping walls. super stoked.
caught some good waves, then went on the beach to pick shells.
thought how stupid i was to be picking shells when the waves were perfect.
paddled back out and got barreled.
some freak 5′ sets and the new swell started to show. everybody getting good waves.
surfed from early morning till 12pm. no breakfast for me but my stomach was full of waves.
Kimura-san with the best barrel. Matsu ripping. James with the set of the day. Travis on many many waves of the day. Maki charging. Takami-san on some big ones too. lots of shells and lots of waves.
Kyle dive class starts at noon. good and important information for everyone.
then free diving after. Kyle and Travis got Uku’s. and Travis also got a nice Mu.
the boys surfed in the evening but little onshore. waves picking up as we seen the most amazing sunsets i’ve seen in a while.
Cathy’s spicy poke class. awesome appetizer session.
dinner and early sleep at 8:30pm. so tired.
here’s one day’s lunch. fried chicken and nasi goren.
appetizers and bintang time. spicy tuna hand rolls. every night.
Kimura-san’s 7/11. he brought so many good snacks from japan! at the end, it was all gone.
and this was the red sunset i was taking about. coming in from a surf, sipping on a bintang, and enjoying the moment with friends. a great way to live a dream life.
