been having some amazing evening sessions since i got back from my trip. in fact, surfed 4 of the last 5 sunsets and had an amazing time. i truly believe that you must leave hawaii to appreciate hawaii. every time i come back, i love it even more than i thought i could ever love.
Naoka’s been here for almost 2 months and he’s loving it too.
just love to be in the ocean with friends laughing and smiling. and dropping in. haha.
Yuki-chan loving hawaii too. surfing into the sunsets can make you feel the connection with this wonderful island of oahu.
surfing is very dangerous. on big days, or small days, it doesn’t matter. you just have to be aware and be very careful. i almost got 3 sharp fins in my face this evening. luckily i blocked it with my hand.
surfed with the 3 girls this evening and had so much fun! it’s an incredible bond you can form with surfing and nature. watching the sunset wave after wave is amazing. uncrowded, calm, and the best moment of the day. many more sunset surf sessions to come. i might make that my daily routine because when i get home at night, i’m completely satisfied.
last wave before dark. get home 7pm, eat dinner, shower, and sleep by 9:30pm. a great healthy lifestyle. pipe masters tomorrow so going out to the north shore to watch it live. see you there!
