i had a great time surfing with Morita-san. first time surfer and first time to hawaii.
balance is key to surfing. and looking forward too. good job Morita-san!
surfing will change your life in a good healthy way. and will also make you smile a lot more. thank you Morita-san!
Time Magazines top 100 world’s most influential people just came out. so stoked to see japanese writer Haruki Murakami on the list. sold billions of books and has trillions of followers, including me.
first i read 1Q84, then Norwegian Wood, then i just finished this book called Colorless. all great books and i’m looking forward to the next one.
Maki-san sent me this instagram post from zaknoyle. this is Seth Moniz getting barreled at Ala Moana Bowls. such an awesome photo by Zak Noyle. by the way, where is Seth now? Seth is in Fiji chasing that huge south swell with photographer Zak Noyle, and mad man big wave rider and deep free diver Mark Healey. i’m sure Seth is learning a lot about surviving in the water in this 1 week on the island of taverna. he will come home tomorrow a man for sure. can’t’ wait to hear the stories!
