Warm Sun: Life is so Good…

208

sometimes i start earlier, sometimes i start later. it all depends on Mother Nature. i knew it was going to be a chilly morning so we started later. and it was perfect because the sun popped out and warmed us all up. any earlier than this would have been too cold!

look how blue the sky was! and we had the whole beach to ourselves! i tell everybody, “pay attention on the beach because once you paddle out, you will forget everything i taught you.” haha. yeah, it always happens.

the conditions were absolutely perfect for our level of surfers. super calm and very fun waves. nothing to freak out about. here are the 6 of us hanging out in the sea. nobody came near us because they were too scared. haha.

throwing the thumbs up. i like to see this because it shows some confidence. and confidence is very important in surfing.

and love the smooth rides all the way in. look how beautiful it was!

if you challenge yourself to surf, your life will only get better.

and double the shaka means double the pleasure.

turning left on your very first surf session. amazing.

side shot looking at Waikiki.

calm and cool is pretty dam cool.

bend your knees and looking forward is the key to surfing success. perfect!

and yes, the smiles went on like this all day. thank you again boys for the wonderful day! keep on surfing and keep on smiling!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide