wow! Ito-san ripping it up yesterday at Ala Moana. waves were pretty good and not too many people out. score!
Ito-san’s been surfing for 11 years. super focused and super smooth.
gosh, i just love photos like this. look at the beautiful turn and the beautiful morning clouds.
thanks for the wonderful time! keep on smiling!
my favorite hulihuli chicken plate for lunch. i can’t believe this only costs $8!
i asked Ito-san what he’s going to do on this trip. he said he is planning to go to Lanikai Beach to swim. then i told him about the recent sewage spill. yes, 9,000,000 gallons or 34,000,000 liters of shit overflowed into the ocean on the East side! and i’m sure a lot of tourists don’t know about that. they must be thinking “wow, Lanikai is empty! lucky!” haha.
went to Diamond Head in the evening. i saw a surfboard floating in the ocean. then a guy swam out 5 minutes later to retrieve his board. then right after, the lifeguards pulled up. somebody called 911 and reported a missing surfer. i knew they came for that so i told them the guy swam out to get his surfboard. they looked relieved. thank you for our lifeguards for always coming to the rescue.
gosh, the waves were so good that we stayed out till dark. didn’t want to miss this!
then came home to the sweet gardenias. a lovely way to end a sweet day…
