i had a great time with these honeymooners this morning. Mr. and Mrs. Ikeda-san from Kyoto who loves to surf! super nice couple and super nice photo at diamond head today!
when i woke up this morning, it was raining, dark, and very cloudy. i was thinking “please Mr. Sun come out for these first timers to hawaii.” right when we arrived at the beach, the blue sky came out and stayed out all day long. the waves were super fun too! lucky!
went to check diamond head after and it was starting to look good. that’s when i thought “um, this evening, i know somewhere that might be really good!”
had a wonderful lunch. i just love this place.
came home and ate some dessert. then i felt the wind start to blow into my window from a different direction. i jump in the truck, head to the east side to check my secret spot, and guess what? it was straight off shore and perfect!!! nobody out so i called Takahashi-san at 5pm. “let’s go surf now! come right now!!!”
we paddle out at sunset and have a golden session. only the 2 of us in the entire ocean. surfed till dark. we scored again!
last, check out Seth and Joshua @ Mexico. sick video!
check out this cool love hotel in Colombia. they have these kind of hotels around the world and people asks me why we don’t have any in hawaii. i tell them “they don’t have love hotels in hawaii because nothing is private here. everywhere you go, you will know somebody. so it won’t work.” haha.
my little princess went hiking yesterday up the mountain in kailua. she took this photo and sent it to me. so beautiful and so happy she gets to see things like this.
and i was up the mountain and took this sunset photo. peace, nature, and calmness.
the talk of the town is still about Seth Moniz charging JAWS for the first time. not only charging, but getting barreled too! it takes a lot of guts to pull into a barrel like this. so stoked for him!
i told Akane-san and Pigu-san, “nothing i can guarantee in the nature, but i can guarantee you 99.5% that you will see a turtle here. and yes, we seen more than one. so guess you can say, pretty much guarantee.
stoked to hear my good friend Kevin Kamakura is shooting photos again! check out this cool shot at a secret spot. do you know where it is? i do.
was looking through some photos i took in Cuba. just enjoying the scenery every single day and every single moment. then the news comes yesterday that they are going to start having 20 direct flights from america to cuba every single day. OMG!!! now american is going to ruin another beautiful country. that’s very sad.
my backpacker buddies told me i have to to Cuba before america ruins it. i took their advice and now i’m glad i did. i don’t think i’ll visit there again. it might be torture to my eyes. and if you didn’t get the chance to visit Cuba yet, go NOW!!! not tomorrow, NOW!!!
they just ran a special on surfline about kewalo’s. a very localized spot with the best of surfers. champions are born here! check out Joshua Moniz flying high!!!
and Seth Moniz has always been the barrel magnet. it’s so hard to get barreled out there but not for Seth.
like i said, champions are born here.
ok, i thought this was big rights or something. i have never seen kewalo’s barrel like this before. but i guess Travis scored the gem of the century.
locals only. i always tell me japanese friends “if you try to surf kewalo’s by yourself, good luck on catching even one wave.” every wave here has somebody’s name written on it.
and yes, Joshua Moniz again flying high. so stoked to see this kid surfing so well.
anyway, a great story on surfline with Ezekiel Lau commenting. check it out!
CLICK HERE FOR SURFLINE FEATURE ON KEWALO BASIN!