The Dream summer continues…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  The waves were still good this morning.  Chest high sets and fun.

And it’s always fun watching the uncles dropping in on each other.

Back to Big Wednesday:  I’ve been surfing the south shore for 47 years.  I thought I’ve surfed every single spot on the south shore.  I was wrong.  I didn’t even know this spot existed and the reason is because it never breaks until it’s very big.  So on a normal day, it’s completely flat and doesn’t break.  This past Wednesday, the size was perfect, the swell direction was perfect, the wind was perfect, and the tide was perfect.  I don’t think anyone knows how good this spot gets.

Pull in or pull out?  On this wave, I had the perfect line to the barrel.  BUT, there was a girl right in my way.  See her duck diving in the wave?  If I pulled in the barrel and she let go of her surfboard, it could have shot right in my face.  It was a split second decision and I decided not to take the chance of trusting a girl I didn’t know.  There were a lot of inexperienced surfers out that day probably because they didn’t know where they were.  Anyway, I hope it gets like this again in my lifetime…

The Day:  Wednesday June 3 at 10am.  The best of the best!

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds up to 25mph today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!