It’s been really shallow for the past 2 weeks. I’ve hit the reef 4x and still have lots of sea urchin stuck deep in my foot for a week already.
Back to yesterday’s 4.5 hour morning session. Ninomiya-san had the session of his life.
He caught 3 really good sets and did 4 turns on each wave. He paddled back out with the biggest smile on his face each time.
On my first wave at 5:50am, I fell and lost my hat. I was looking for it all morning. Scanning the ocean but just couldn’t find it. I finally gave up. Then 4 hours later, I see a surfer at Rock Piles with a bright white hat. Could it be? I paddle over to him and as I got closer, I recognized my hat! OMG, I ask him, “where did you find that hat?” He said “I found it in the channel by Magic Island.”
He kindly gave it back to me and I was so happy because I really needed it. So grateful!
Then it was back for Round 2. Ogasawara-san taking off on her first ride.
Surfing under the rainbow. Life is good for this girl…
Anyway, after 6.5 hours in the ocean, I was totally sunburnt. Took a cold shower and went to sleep.
