I found a hard drive that I thought I lost.  Opened it up and found some classic photos from traveling.  This was 20 years ago in the Philippines waiting at a small little airport.  Everything was manual, the airplane was tiny, and we had to take out some seats so our board bags could fit.  It was pretty scary.  As you can see, Tokura-san looked a little concerned.  We all did.  

Big Wednesday was today as the big swell pumped solid 5′ sets to Ala Moana.

We surfed Rockpiles because nobody was out.  It was huge!  This wave looks small but it’s actually big.

Paddling out is very tricky.  If you time it right, you will make it out.  If you don’t, you won’t make it out.  A lot of surfers couldn’t get out today.  There were a few broken boards too.  Hashimoto-san and Rocky were charging!  Today was a day of survival…

Hashimoto-san had the best session this morning.  He caught the biggest and thickest wave of his life.  After that, he was completely satisfied.  I’m sure he will never forget that ride, and never forget that feeling.

Yesterday once more:  Carter taking off!

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and good.
Light south winds becoming stronger tomorrow.
Cloudy with big storm coming this afternoon.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

A beautiful day today and a crazy storm forecasted for tomorrow.  Enjoy it while you can.

This is the first swell of the year.  In fact, this is the first swell in the past 6 months.  The south shore is finally waking up.  Swell or no swell, Kyle is always on it.  

Because the waves came up, so did all the silt that was settled on the bottom of the ocean.  So yes, the water is just as dirty as it was a week ago.

It was local time today.  If you’re a visitor, I don’t think you would be able to catch a single wave.

Keone always ripping and having fun doing it.

Hashimoto-san got lucky and caught some really good waves today.  He was in the right place at the right time.

Paddling is better, timing is better, therefore, surfing is better.  Today was his best performance ever!  

After surf, I took a ride to Waianae.  Every time I go to the west side, I always feel like I’m entering another country.  It’s just so different from town.  And yes, the water was still dirty out there too.

The day has come.  I pulled Mayuki out of the ocean this afternoon to give her some tender loving care.  Lots of time and money, but I always feel that if you love something, take care of it.