Yesterdays hang 20 doggie style…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana head high sets and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  A beautiful full moon surf session this early morning.  Low tide and the waves coming up!

Round 2:  Afternoon session with Miwa-san.  Perfect waves and 20 rides for this young surfer girl.

Really good rail surfing.  Fast and smooth style.

Hawaii is surfers paradise.

High tide in the afternoon and still coming up!

I get a text from my sister at 4:30am, “are you surfing today?”  I wasn’t planning to surf but I replied “yes I am.”  So 6am I met my sister Tammy and Tony Moniz down at Bowls.  Something we’ve never done before so yes, it was a very special moment.  

We lucked out because there were only 3 surfers out.  Jerome, Malcom, and Jeannie.  The waves were perfect for Tammy.  She told me she was going to bring her SUP but I told her “NO SUP’s allowed at Bowls!!!”  

Tammy’s longboard was doing fine.  I was pretty impressed in her surfing.  A grandma with 8 grandkids still ripping.  

The waves and conditions were perfect for the family day.  

Ever since we surfed last year in Japan, Tony got back into it.  He ordered a Mark Richards twin fin, and a Cheyne Horan quad directly from Mark and Cheyne.  This was his custom Cheyne Horan and his first time riding it.

Tony was ripping on it!  I was so happy to surf with him again.  We use to surf everyday together back in the late 1980’s so it felt like the good old days.  

Tony also told me he was super stoked with his Dove “easy paddle” wetsuit.  It makes it easier to paddle and easier to pop up.  So stoked that Dove is helping the old school surfers get back into surfing again!