Round 1: The waves were still good this morning. Chest high sets and fun.
And it’s always fun watching the uncles dropping in on each other.
Back to Big Wednesday: I’ve been surfing the south shore for 47 years. I thought I’ve surfed every single spot on the south shore. I was wrong. I didn’t even know this spot existed and the reason is because it never breaks until it’s very big. So on a normal day, it’s completely flat and doesn’t break. This past Wednesday, the size was perfect, the swell direction was perfect, the wind was perfect, and the tide was perfect. I don’t think anyone knows how good this spot gets.
Pull in or pull out? On this wave, I had the perfect line to the barrel. BUT, there was a girl right in my way. See her duck diving in the wave? If I pulled in the barrel and she let go of her surfboard, it could have shot right in my face. It was a split second decision and I decided not to take the chance of trusting a girl I didn’t know. There were a lot of inexperienced surfers out that day probably because they didn’t know where they were. Anyway, I hope it gets like this again in my lifetime…
