Back in 2015:  I visited El Salvador before it changed.  Back then it was dangerous, now it isn’t.  Back then most surf spots were secret, now there’s no secrets.  Back then, you had to explore, now you can explore on YouTube.  Anyway, I met this kid named Charlie.  He drove me around, showed me the locals spots, and ended up being my bodyguard.  I think he was only 15 years old.

How dangerous was it back in 2015?  Well, the MS-13 gang controlled the country. In 2015, El Salvador had the world’s highest homicide rate, recording over 100 murders per 100,000 people.  So basically, I went there by myself at the most dangerous time for that country.  Every shop or hostel needed an armed security guard at the entrance.  And I still slept with one eye opened.

But once you’re in the ocean, you forget everything.  I surfed some of the best waves ever on that surf trip.  Imagine surfing the now world famous Punta Roca with nobody out.  Yes, it happened then but unfortunately will never happen again.

Then once you’re on land again, it’s back to reality.  It was very scary driving around, even with my 15 year old bodyguard.

I always think about Charlie and his hospitality.  He guided me and protected me for free.  I felt the aloha spirit in him.

I told him I’m coming back.  11 years has since passed, but El Salvador has always been on my mind.

Then I saw a surfing video of last years 2025 WSL contest.  OMG, could this be Charlie?

Summer fun…

Good morning 2:50am.
Ala Moana head high and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Today I felt like surfing without a crowd so I chose to go to Diamond Head.  When I pulled up, there were only 2 surfers out.  Why?  The waves were so good!  I put on my trunks, waxed my board, and ran down the mountain.

Right as I was to jump in, I remembered there was a shark attack yesterday out there.  Now I get it.  That’s why nobody wanted to surf out there.  It turned out to be the most peaceful surf sessions I had in a very long time.  Yes, there are sharks out there, and there are sharks everywhere.  Remember, sharks can swim.

I surfed 2 rounds yesterday at Ala Moana for 3 hours.  Tight lineups and crowded.  Today was different.  A very big ocean with lots of space to myself.  Today’s session felt a hundred times better.  That’s the power of Diamond Head.