Sharp rocks, point break.  This is Rocky Point!

Good morning 5am.
Happy Thanksgiving Day!
North shore 8-10′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high and clean.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny, hazy, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I drove out super early this morning to the North shore.  I knew the waves were coming up super fast so it was hard to chose a spot.  I decided on Rocky Point because it was going to be the biggest and most consistent.  I wanted to catch a lot of waves so this was the best spot for that.  Everything went good, surfed some good ones, then it went wrong.  The waves got too big and the current was super strong.  As I was coming to the shore, all the water sucked out from under me and I was rolling on the sharp rocks.  Then the next waves came and smashed me.  It could have been very bad but luckily the ocean pushed me up the beach after.  

I protected my surfboard more than my body.  I was just a natural instinct.  My surfboard was ok but my whole body was scratched up from my chest to my toes.  It looked like I got into a fight with a cat.  Haha.  I was planning to surf Backdoor right after this but thought I’d had enough damage for the day.

Drove by Haleiwa to check it out on the way home.  The waves were perfect.  Keoni on a beautiful one.  Felt good to surf some powerful waves again!

Round 1:  North shore dawn patrol.  Waves getting bigger and bigger.  Rocky Point so good!   Taking off sideways.

You must commit.  Head down, paddle hard, and GO!

Fast barreling lefts, strong current, and big closeout sets.  So much fun!