Strong onshore winds this morning at Bowls but it didn’t stop us from surfing.  Sunny sky and nobody out.  

Round 1:  Kamobayashi-san is very strong minded.  Not too many surfers can endure the conditions we had today.  Lots of bumps, lots of waves breaking in front of us, and lots of wind in your face.  But he kept on going and going.  This is surfing…

So stoked to see surfers enjoying the ride till the end like this.  This is surfing…

Round 2:  Nakahodo-san and I drove an hour to the other side of the island looking for the perfect wave.  Guess what?  Yes, we found it.  Sunny, overhead, offshore, and as perfect as can be.  I honestly thought we were on a remote island off Indonesia.  There was nobody when we paddled out.  Later, 2 local guys paddled out and one of them told me “this happens here only once a year.”  It was that rare, and that good.  We had the best session ever and when we got in, Nakahodo-san told me that this was his best session since we started surfing together 10 years ago.  Then he asked me the name of the surf spot and I told him, “DON’T ASK!!!”  Todays spot is super secret and only the locals on that side know about it.  No photos, no GPS, and no explanation needed.  This is surfing…

Yesterday once more:  Surfing fun Bowls with Ooki-san!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore still solid 10-12′ today.
Ala Moana chest high and bumpy.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
South winds at 10mph.
Sun, clouds, haze, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  I was thinking the waves were going to be very bad this morning because of the forecasted strong South/West winds.  BUT, the winds were more from the South so the waves were super fun.  Perfect for Kamo-san’s first surfing experience in Hawaii!

A very athletic and super positive guy.  Enjoying each and every ride.

First time surfing in Hawaii and smiling the whole way.  This is what surfing is all about.

Round 2:  It was Ooki-san’s third time surfing together and it was a pleasure to see him getting better and better each time.  Cool and calm surfing.

The waves were so fun today.  Nobody out and good chest high waves if you could find them.  Ooki-san missed this wave so I rode by and said “thank you!”

Super warm and protected from the sun.  These 1mm Dove wetsuits are the best for Hawaii.

From the beach, the waves looked terrible.  From the water, it looked super fun.  And once you’re on one, it was the best feeling to be surfing at Bowls with nobody around.  Nice rides today guys!

Round 3:  A different secret spot session and we scored again.  Nakahodo-san is a very lucky surfer because we surfed so many spots since he got here.  All so good!  Sorry no photos from secret spots anymore….

Sunburnt and sleepy.  Goodnight.