Round 1:  I drove to look at the ocean this morning and when I saw the overhead swells coming from the west, I remembered a spot that only works on swells like this.  I drive 40 minutes, paddle out 40 minutes, and we’re there all alone.  The most perfect overhead barrels, sharp reef, and memorable rides.

We surfed for a couple of hours all to ourselves.  Paddled 40 minutes back in, drove 50 minutes and I was home.  I haven’t surfed this spot in 6 years and when the next west swell comes, I’m straight back there.  I felt like an out of country surf trip today.

Round 2:  It was so fun surfing this afternoon at Bowls.  Onshore winds and very challenging.  

Sawadzu-san caught some really nice and long rides.

64 years old and surfing like a young boy.  Perfect style!

Yesterday once more:  West swell wrap looking good!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 6-8′ and good. Pipeline Pro on!
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
No wind so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm after a cool morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful morning.  Golden sunset and the perfect calm day to be in the ocean.

Drove 1 hour and finally arrived to another secret spot in the middle of the ocean.  Nobody out and the waves were absolutely perfect!  I took 3 surfboards because I wanted to try them out.  Then sell one of them to a friend.

First was a 5’11 Great White twin fin with 32 liters in volume.  A little heavier glassing so it felt very stable during turns.  Surfing felt amazing.

Then was my 5’11 Great White full carbon twin fin.  OMG, it was lighting fast and flying on the ocean surface.  After testing out all 3 boards, I decided to keep all of them.  None is for sale anymore.  Haha.

As I was driving back, the ocean was so calm and the water so clean.  It was irresistible.  I could actually see fish from the boat.  I threw in the anchor, grabbed my mask and spear, and went for a quick hunt.

It took 20 minutes to catch my dinner for tonight.  Going to start frying the fish right now.  Have a wonderful evening and expect the waves to be epic again tomorrow morning!