A person could be having the worst day of his life but once you put on a mask and dive under the ocean surface, everything goes away.  I think free diving is the ultimate way to peace.  I would probably be a wreck without it.  

It’s pretty amazing how the weather can change so fast in Hawaii.  Just look up all day and you will see the changes happening.  

I think the cutback is the most important maneuver in surfing.  The mechanics of doing it is very simple and once you can do one, everything else is easy.  

It’s all about pushing hard on your back foot.  The harder you push, the faster you will go and the cooler you will look.

Going straight is also beautiful if you’re super calm like this.  Calmness is coolness.

The reason I bought an E-Bike a while ago was to practice wheeling.  I tried it a few times and almost flipped over.  One crash on a dirt bike and you won’t be surfing for a while.  That’s why I sold my bike soon after.

New board, better surfing, more stoke…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I can honestly say I fully trust Kimo and Joshua with my life.  The kind of free diving we do, you have to.  We’re always watching out for each other.  Things like shallow water blackout, speargun accidents, and shark attacks.  All eyes on each other at all times.

A hungry tiger shark made a straight line towards me as I was securing my fish.  All he had his eyes on was my bloody dead Uku.  Blood was everywhere as I was focused on my fish and nothing else.  If I didn’t look over my shoulder at the last second, the shark would have ate my fish along with my head and shoulder.  Yes, the mouth was opened that big!  I was literally seconds away from a real tiger shark attack.  Kimo saw the shark and headed straight towards it to cut it off.  This was his view as he made sure the shark turned away from me.  We estimated it to be 12′ and very beautiful.  It was weird because I wasn’t scared, but more surprised.  Surprised on how close it got to me and when it turned, and how beautiful the tiger stripes were.  Thank you Kimo for the photo and for watching over me.

I was very grateful to bring home my catch.  This uku tasted a lot better than ever because of the experience.  

This will be my dinner for the next 5 days.  Then I will make fish katsu with the remaining filets.

By the way, the waves were epic this morning.  Today is the last day for calm winds in the morning so I went to a secret spot.  Caught 5 waves in 30 minutes and was content.  I got home at 7:30am a happy man!