Another freak accident happened yesterday in the Mentawai Islands.  This young girl was surfing at Beng Beng’s when a small swordfish jumped out of the water and struck her in her chest.  She died.  As a surfer, it really hurts to hear stories like this.  We’ve been to the Mentawai’s, we’ve surfed Beng Beng’s, and we experienced swordfish jumping in the ocean.  But for one to strike you in the heart and kill you while you’re surfing, that’s crazy.  Who knows when it’s our time to die?  But as every hard core surfer will tell you, dying doing what you love is the best way to go.  My condolences to this girls family and friends.  She’s still surfing the wave that will never end…

Double at Diamond Head!

Good morning 4am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful morning out at Bowls.  Just the Uncles out having a great Saturday morning.  When I pulled up to the beach, I couldn’t wait to paddle out!!!

Surprisingly, the waves were much bigger and better than yesterday.  Nobody was expecting this.  

Yesterday I tired out after pumping into 2 waves.  I almost felt like I was going to get a heart attack.  Today I could pump into 4 waves and felt good.  Foiling is the best cardio exercise you can ever experience.  Nothing else will get my heart pumping that fast.  

This is like a foilers dream.  The feeling of being so connected to the ocean and your foil is amazing.  Then to be able to surf the waves like a surfboard makes it exciting.  I still think a chest high wave on a foil feels like a 10′ wave on a surfboard.  That’s how fast and wild it feels.  Winter is here and foil fever is back!