When the waves are small, this parking lot is full in the morning.  When the waves are big, it’s not so full.  And when the waves are HUGE like today, it’s empty.  I can’t see the waves when I arrive in the morning but I can see the parking lot and it will tell you the size.

From the beach, you can’t really tell how big the waves are because we’re paddling out in the dark.  But once you reach the waves, you can feel the energy.  There was a lot of power in this new swell and the waves were rolling in like mountains.  

We all caught a few waves and were having fun.  The girls were surfing on their own and then the horizon suddenly turned dark. You could no longer see the sky, all you could see was a black mountain that looked 20′ high.  It broke on our heads and everyone got pounded.  Then we regrouped and paddled back out again and again.  The girls were super brave today!

One set broke outside the red buoy.  One surfer panicked when the big set wiped us all out.  He went in.  It was a very crazy big wave morning with lots of adrenaline and excitement.  The girls were so happy just to survive today.  One uncle asked them what they were doing out there.  Another uncle asked them if they were catching the small waves on the inside.  No, they were catching the big sets on the outside and having the time of their lives!

Yesterday once more:  Bowls going off!!!

Surf break.

Emerald Big Rights.

Good morning 2:50am.
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  The swell came up again today.  Much bigger and better than yesterday.  Uncle Ray taking off on a big one!  

Kai on a perfect barreling wave.  The conditions were so good.

Mighty Mouse was getting some really good waves on her own.  

If you put in the time and effort like this girl, you will get rewarded with the best waves of your life.  

I was on the outside and when I duck dove under a wave, I duck dove so deep that my hand smashed the reef.  There was a lot of water moving today so it was very shallow before the waves came rolling over you.

Round 2:  After this mornings surf, I knew that Big Rights will be good later in the day.  The perfect swell direction, off shore winds, and barreling.  So I took a nap and headed straight there.  I didn’t even check the waves.  I just parked my car and paddled out.  

I went out there for one reason, to get barreled!  There is nothing in this world that beats the feeling of being in the barrel.  After a few, I was content.

My last wave was really good so I came in with the biggest smile on my face.  There is something about Big Rights that makes me happy.  Maybe that’s why I’ve been surfing out there for the past 42 years.

There is a hurricane heading straight to Hawaii.  More swell is on the way!  The best summer ever continues…