Tuesday October22日 2024年

To Fall in Love Again

This morning at Bowls.  King high tide, blue sky, warm water, and small swell perfect for the foil.  I’m in love with flying again!

October 19, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

A perfect backside bottom turn…

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana knee high and super high tide morning.
Diamond Head waist high and bump.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Hole in None

I was so excited that the waves finally got small and the tide was super high in the morning.  I was waiting for this day because I wanted to foil really bad.  And today was that perfect day for that!  Epic conditions, king high tide, and knee high waves that will make you fly like a bird!

It’s been so long but I still can foil!  And the feeling of going so fast and feeling so free is amazing.  It’s also the best workout in the world.  When I came in, I was so exhausted, so content, and so happy.  And it was still 7:30am?

Like most surfers, I was once hooked on golfing.  But when I started wishing the waves were junk so I could go golf with the boys, I knew it was time to quit.  These clubs were under my house for decades and are probably collector items.  Haha.  I just threw it away in the trash and don’t regret a thing.  My dream of a “hole in one” came true so I’ll never look back…