Yesterday morning was so amazing.  I started paddling out but turned around to grab my camera because I knew it was going to be a special sunrise.  The sky was starting to look like fire!

I was waiting in the inside for anyone to catch a wave and Kyle was the one.  An epic morning to remember.

This morning was normal.  Still nice cloud formation but nothing like yesterday.

Mika Akima getting on an early one.

This morning had the most surfers I’ve seen in a very long time.  Everybody was very hungry and no wave went to waste.  Sometimes 2 or 3 guys per wave.   It was pretty crazy.

Went back for an evening session with Miho-san.  OMG, she got so good!!!  Super calm and comfortable.

Walking the board and looking very confident.

We surfed into the sunset.  And so did a hundred other surfers.  It was so crowded but nobody bothered us.

Miho-san told me she caught a months worth of waves this evening.  Tomorrow let’s go get another months worth of waves!

Yesterday once more:  Epic Bowls…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Surfing with Daisuke-san was so fun.  He figured out the lineup at Bowls pretty fast.  Keeping busy and catching a lot of waves.  And what impressed me the most was how well mannered he was.

I was watching him go higher and higher on the lip every wave he surfed.  This is ripping!

Daisuke-san is a very happy surfer.  If everyone could smile like this, the world would be a better place…

More photos I forgot to post.  Mighty Mouse realized how fun it is surfing big waves on a big board.  So smooth and so easy!

I think we’re ready for the North Shore!

John on a set at Bowls.  Better not be in his way.

The biggest memory I have with Taro-san was when I went to Niseko 30 years ago.  It was one of my first snowboard trips so I was basically a beginner.  He took me up to the highest peak, we hiked higher to the backside of the mountain, he put a beacon around my neck,  and said “GO!”  Till this day, that was the craziest snowboard moment of my life.  Since then, I heard they blocked off the back of that mountain because too many people died there.  The funny part of the story was I had no idea what a beacon was back then.  And when I found out later, I thought to myself “OMG!”