good morning. 5:30am and the waves should be good today so i’m out of here…. see ya….

this photo is from the other day at pipe. i seen a guy take off super deep and pull into the barrel, then somebody dropped in and pulled in too. i was just looking at it through my lens and was thinking what an asshole for dropping in. then in the back, i seen this shadow coming from deep inside. the guy in the back freaking made the barrel, both of them did…. so i snapped this shot and that’s the story….

and last, just an empty wave from the other days secret shorebreak session…. puinsai!!!

good evening. waves were big on the north shore this morning but dropped all day. and will be dropping this weekend until the next big swell hits on monday morning. perfect time for the bodyboarding contest at pipe. i wish there are waves everyday so they can get that 3 day event over and done. then about 300 bodyboarders will go back home. that’s the last contest of the year for pipe/backdoor so it’s time for the patient people like me to get some good waves. i can’t wait. as for tomorrow, i’m dawn patroling somewhere. then when the winds blow onshore, maybe go underwater patrol…. just got to wake up and see. when i was a kid and was looking forward to something the next day, i would sleep early because i thought the next morning would come faster. that’s how i feel now. so goodnight and abc u tomorrow…

drove past diamond head today and the waves looked super fun. lighthouse had like 25 guys out and cliffs only had 5. so i went out to cliffs and had a fun session. i haven’t surfed out there for a while so i forgot how slow that wave was. it took me a couple of waves until i finally slowed down my surfing. then i was just riding the wave and going with the flow….

WCT pro surfer chris ward can’t go to australia for the first WCT contest at snapper rocks due to his pending case. he’s up shit creek and hope he can find a way out of it or he’ll be missing more contests than that….

and went to check on the piggies this evening…. 3 little piggies left so 3 fresh liver sashimi’s…. get the sesame oil and salt ready….
**and last, i was looking for police tickets on internet for the sold out show tomorrow night. i came across this ad. this guy is selling 3 tickets and when i read his ad, i couldn’t stop laughing….. check it out…
THREE POLICE tickets on the aisle Sec.24 Sunday Night !
It’s Valentines Day week-end ! ,
take your wife AND girlfriend to see the Police !
Hard tickets for Sunday 2/17 show.
Seats are on the aisle sec. 22 row K . 109 each. Buy 1 , 2 Or all 3 !

**i’m going to the concert to see who’s sitting in those seats.. haha….

good morning. 6:45am aloha friday. the waves way down on the north shore but still big. got 8 guys out at pipe now but it doesn’t look that good. maybe some 8′ sets and more out of the north. town has some chest high sets with 4 guys out at bowls and 8 guys and a standup paddle surfer out at the park. looks like it’s going to be a nice day. see you in the water….

check out how nice diamond head was yesterday… head high, warm weather, and uncrowded…..

they ran the KU IKAIKA CHALLENGE at makaha point yesterday in 15-18′ surf. congratulations to aaron napoleon for winning it….

and check out this shot of pepen carving out a heart at keramas on valentines day….

and last, i heard japan was cold yesterday and yes, it looked cold….[:???:][:???:][:???:] makes me want to sit in front of a fire and eat nabe… and drink hot sake….[:??????:][:??????:][:??????:]