good evening. huge waves on the north and west shores today with the high surf warning posted. stayed in town and surfed with the super kids again…..

we pulled up to kewalo’s and the waves were going off!! only 2 guys out with off shore shoulder high perfect waves. we surfed for almost 4 hours straight. super fun session….

kairi is one of the cutest kids i’ve ever seen. 8 years old and his whole surfing life ahead of him. kairi has so much energy and is always amping out. kind of like me. haha. he surfs good already and his level of surfing is just going to go up and up….

we were surfing kewalo’s for about a half an hour then guess who comes paddling out? yeah, carissa moore. i think reika freaked out when carissa paddled out and said hello to everybody in japanese. then she caught her first wave, did a huge snap throwing her tail out, then did a power backside 360. carissa was surfing really good and is going to be the one to beat at the roxy pro next week in australia. gosh, i’m glad i had my camera to get this photo….

kota is another one of the cutest kids i’ve ever seen. at 9 years old. he’s going to be the sleeper. he doesn’t talk much but you can see his determination when he surfs. i pushed him into a big set today and he charged it. well, he had too…. and half way through the session, some other surfers board hit kota’s head. he was holding his head and crying. i paddled up to him and asked if he wanted to go in. he nodded “no”. then i asked him if he wanted to go back out and surf. he nodded “yes”. so surf we did…. tough kid….

and last, meet the parents… i think it’s an awesome thing when parents support their kids in what they love to do. for these kids, it’s surfing. and to have your parents stand by you and support you 100% must be an awesome feeling. starting from the left is kaori mayaguchi’s mom, next is kota iida’s mom, then taking the video is kairi and reika noro’s mom, and in the back is grandma. i give you mothers credit in what your doing for your kids. keep up the support….

good morning and happy valentines day to all of you…. hope somebody special got you something special. the waves are huge today. every spot on the north shore is closing out except for waimea bay. it looks 15′ or so with 25 guys on it. no eddie aikau contest but still ridable. just got a call from kenji. he’s at tracks and said it’s 2′ and pretty good. but already packed and it’s only 7:30am. it will be twice as packed in an hour from now. thanks kenji for the report. town got some little ones. chest high with perfect conditions. 6 guys out at rockpiles and a few guys out at bowls. i bet the west swells going to wrap into town by this afternoon so if you know where to go, you might get some solid overhead perfect waves. see you out there….

these are the japanese pro bodyboard twins. always smiling and always so nice. and always out at big pipeline. they seem so happy all the time and i enjoy talking to them. this is emi-san and michiko-san. i just call them the bodyboard twins….
**check out the twins blog by CLICKING HERE….

good evening. gosh, had an awesome day today. took the most poundings ever but still alive to talk about it. pulled up to pipe this morning and this is what it looked like…

the waves were 4-6′ with some 8′ sets once in a while. grabbed my 7’0 and jumped in. caught a few pipe waves and in between sets, some of the boys were talking about everybody getting hurt out there these past few days. guys like mark healey, jason shibata, roy powers, freddy patachia, wade tokoro, and many more. then i heard the ambulance siren going and it wasn’t even 8am yet. pretty freaky…. then here comes this 5′ backdoor double up set coming right to me. i took off, pulled into the barrel, and then end shut down and threw me over the falls. my leash wrapped around my 2 ankles and my board was pulling me along the reef for 20′ or so. it felt like somebody tied my ankles up and was dragging me from the back of a truck. i hit the reef on my arms and legs and got the leash rope marks around my two ankles. luckily i didn’t panic or i would have drowned. it was pretty scary…. i caught my next wave in and called it a day….

wanted to kill some time so figured i’d go shoot some empty shore break photos. gosh, it was nuts. actually more nuts than pipe. it was 6′ tall and 10′ wide. i tried to duck dive under a set and the wave picked me up like a rag doll and slammed me into the sand. it almost knocked me out and i could hear every bone in my body crack. my camera blew out of my hand and my 2 fins were hanging by the fin straps. lucky i had a strap on my camera or it would have been history….. imagine konishiki jumping 10′ in the air and landing on you. that’s how heavy the impact was….

when i was paddling in at pipe, i told chigusa i was going to shoot some empty shorebreak waves and nobody was going to be out. she jumped in her car and met there. it was pretty heavy out there and that’s the reason nobody was out when we got there. people break necks and backs out there all the time. but chigusa was charging the whole time and after getting pounded, she came up smiling and saying “tanoshi”, which means “fun” in english. fun? i told her she was crazy… she said “tanoshi” like 5 times after getting pounded and i told her she was crazy 10 times…. chigusa is crazy…. now that’s 11 times….

this is chigusa’s younger sister misako or “mitan”. mitan is following in her older sisters footsteps. she caught some pretty heavy waves too and came up smiling too. i don’t know her too well so i didn’t say “your crazy”. so now i will, “mitan, your crazy”…..

this is maho toda’s wife yumi-san. i remember seeing yumi for the first time at the women’s pipeline bodyboard contest last year. the waves were 10′ solid and yumi was charging. so bodyboarding the shorebreak today was probably fun for her too…..

so meet the 3 crazy bodyboarder chicks…. crazy, crazy, and crazy…. hope your body feels ok when you wake up tomorrow morning. i know mine won’t….
**by the way, got some better photos but will have to save that for later…. check your email….