good evening. north shore was too big this morning and everywhere was junky so it was off to the west side. perfect head high waves, clean water, sunny skies, and many friends… what an awesome day out on the west side….
japanese pro’s naohisa ogawa, ushikoshi, tetsu urayama, matchi, hayato maki, and zuccho were all there ripping it up. this is takayuki fukuchi and tomo yoshioka having fun in the sun on the west side. two cool guys..
pro bodyboarders chiaki, yumie, and the twins were out too. this is yumie enjoying the clean water…
then the moniz clan packed in the van along with coco ho and other north shore groms came out and it was all over. that’s how to take over a spot…. this is kelia moniz….
josh moniz is 11 years old. he’s the shy one. here’s josh going for the big floater…
chiaki, yumie, and the twins…. these girls knew where the spot was today…. it was nanakuli tracks….
**more photos coming tomorrow….
Sunny West Side Oahu….
Hong Kong Tube Rider….
good morning. 6:15am and i think it’s going to be another good day for surf. might have a little morning sickness but should be epic again by noon. wow, i just seen a set at pipe. for some reason, it looks bigger than yesterday? the swell is coming more out of the north. where’s the spot today? sunset. better get out my 7’6. and just checked the surf forecast and it’s looking GOOD!! big back to back to back swells on the way. everybody saying it’s going to be a good march so i’m in no rush. if it’s anything close to how it was last march, we’re going to score. contest season starting up soon so everybody’s out of here. surf, everybody go surf!!!! waves going off!!!! see you in the water….
went to my sisters house last night for a barbecue. my nephew noah came back for a week and will be off to iraq. good to see him back in hawaii and probably appreciating everything about it. and kelia turned 15 a few days ago. gosh, how kids grow up so fast. it seemed like a few days ago when i use to squeeze her chubby cheeks and tickle her all over. can’t do that anymore….
and micah too. he’s a man already. drives a car, surfs big pipeline, breaks unbreakable surfboards, and is way bigger than me. he’s another one i use to tickle all over. maybe i will tackle him in the sand at pipe tomorrow and tickle him. just to embarrass him in front of all his north shore friends… haha…
and here is seth, isaiah, and josh playing a toy baseball game. these guys are super competitive. nobody wanted to lose…. cheat and everything…. classic….
i met matsu about 16 years ago in shonan. at that time, he was going to photography school with kenji. that’s how i met kenji. anyway, kenji went into surfing photography and matsu went fashion photography. two different roads but both have the same interests. surfing… matsu now lives in hong kong and is my hong kong surf report. he always sends me the surf report and that’s somewhere i want to go now. he knows all the secret spots and is living the traveling surfers dream. hope to make it this year so we can share barrels like we use too…. check matsu getting barreled in hong kong. yes, i said hong kong….
not too many people know that you can surf in hong kong. i went there once and surfed at night. well, in the clubs…. haha… i didn’t even know there were beaches there. pretty dumb yeah? but now i know thanks to matsu…. thanks and hope to see you this year…..
More Pipe Photos….
good evening. the waves came down today. it was nothing like yesterday. 4-6′ with bigger sets and packed lineups. brown water around the island and even some waves in town. a bigger swell on the way for early next week. i think our winter season has really started. stay tuned. oh, wanted to say thanks so much to the kimura-san family that left today. i had a super fun time and can’t wait to see you guys in wakayama. oysters, ishidai, sashimi, cold beer, and agua bar…. see you soon…
now days, there are so many bodyboarders out at pipe. and an upcoming bodyboard contest doesn’t help. yesterday had 100 people out at pipe, 60 of them bodyboarders. it gets irritating as a surfer because they are all over the inside like ants. but i have to say this, bodyboarders don’t waste any waves. they catch anything and everything. watching them take vertical drops and not break their backs trips me out. i seen some crazy ass shit yesterday. crazy ass shit like this…
i trip out when i see longboarders take off at pipe. bonga is the man out there but this guy got some good ones too….
a japanese pro bodyboarder taking off deep…..
this is mikey bruneau. mikey was on the same micronesia trip i went on with flynn and daniel jones. he was a grom too dreaming of surfing pipe some day. a few years ago, he got second in the monster pipe pro. and it was real nuts pipe. from then on, his confidence level has risen and is another top guy out there….
and last, i still think wakita is one of the top 10 pipe surfers in the world. he takes off deeper than anybody else and charges. sometimes he eats shit but he gets right back up and does it again. this wave was from deep, even deeper than wakita peak….. a few waves after this, he took off on a huge double up and jumped over the falls. i got the shot and it’s freaking nuts… but can’t show it to you. well, maybe later….
**the full pipeline gallery coming up soon on GO-NAMINORI.COM…..
**and last last, what the heck happened to the sunny mark? shock!!!!