good morning, 6:30am here on this beautiful day. small waves in town. actually seen a chest high perfect wave at bowls. 3 guys out. looks fun and it’s super clean. the water finally cleaned up in town. i was out in waikiki yesterday and the water was crystal clean. north shore looks 2-3′ right not but should be getting bigger. the buoys are up so probably 5′ by this afternoon. i think they will get the pipe masters started. well, it’s going to be a beautiful day out there so get in the water. have a nice day….

i remember going up to kamehameha school 3x a week to train with tony moniz, todd mitsui, kaipo jaquias, eric barton, sunny garcia, john shimooka, kalani robb, and many others. trainer kimo middlesworth use to get us in top shape. we use to start off at 5:30am running down a 2 mile hill, hitting the bottom and grabbing 50lbs bags of sand in rubber tubes and putting it around our necks. running up and down the hill 7x. race back up to the gym. and when i mean race, i mean race. the kind when we got to the top, somebody would throw up. it was that competitive. and that was just the start. we hit the gym, do 1000 sit-ups, jump rope for 15 minutes, stretch, and do 15 reps of like 15 weight routines. then it was off to the pool. the freezing pool. we did laps and laps until we were totally out of breath. underwater exercises, kickboard races, and end it with a protein shake. that would take about 2 hours. then i would either be off to surf the north shore, or off to school. we were so fit that surfing big waves was nothing. we use to paddle out on the biggest days out at sunset, haleiwa, lani’s, pipeline, and pretty everywhere unridable. we use to follow tony, which meant we were surfing the biggest waves on the north shore. rain, onshore, or closing out. anything. when i think about it now, those were the days. no photographers, no media hype. it was just us and the ocean. we did it for the challenge and for the feeling. we could care less of anybody seen us or not… so here i was a few weeks ago taking nao in the pool for some short training exercises. as i was waiting for her to come back up from holding her breath, i was thinking. i was thinking of how much those years of hard core training paid off. thanks kimo for taking the time to work our butts off….

nao’s first attempt at holding her breath was 24 seconds. by the second day, she could hold it for 1 minute 15 seconds. and from barely making it from one side to the other swimming under water, she did it easily over and over again. pretty impressive. next step? swim out to big sunset with no board and fins. practice diving under big mountain white wash. get ready and see you next year nao…

by the way, if you didn’t see it, this is the go-naminori ad we ran in the past Japan Surfer Girls Magazine….. go girls….
**want to watch the PIPE MASTERS? CLICK HERE…..

**want to watch the PIPE MASTERS IN JAPANESE? CLICK HERE…..

good evening. kind of a cool day here in hawaii but gosh, it was so beautiful outside and outside was where i was all day. the sun felt soooo good. waves on the north shore was small but fun. town even had some fun waves with hardly anybody out. i just checked the north shore forecast and not any big swells on the way. might be a small pipe masters this year. that would suck. the buoys ain’t showing anything yet so keep your fingers crossed. anyway, the weather here in hawaii went back to beautiful so i’m feeling pretty high. and wanted to say congratulations to all the marathon runners again. i drove by waikiki and seen everybody having a hard time walking. it happens every year. well, it’s getting a little chilly outside. might be a cold winter night. keep warm and have a great evening….

got up pretty early this morning and seen the coolest clouds outside of my window. i knew it was going to be a beautiful day….

when i left my house and was driving, two birds flew on my windshield wipers. they were just cruzing so i pulled over and took a photo… then i ate um. haha. just jokng…

and do you know where this is? one of the most famous mountains in the world. not too many people get this angle. take a guess….

and if you know where the top photo is, you know where this spot is. this is a secret spot and only one guy was out there today. it looked super fun. so did all the spots around here…

brandon has the best view of the sunsets from his house. he called me last night and told me to look outside my window. it was nothing like this. i wish i had a view like this. if i did, i would be home every single evening watching the sunset sipping on a glass of wine. wait, i don’t drink wine. but i probably would….

good morning. 6:30am. light winds and small waves around the island. north shore is 2-3 and probably too small for the pipe masters. semi-clean conditions but still a little bumpy. north/west swell on the way tomorrow so the pipe masters should be starting. town is really clean but no waves. knee/waist high with nobody out anywhere. oh wait, one guy paddled out to bowls. south swell coming in later tonight. it’s going to be a nice day so get out there and enjoy… be safe….
**had some time yesterday so was deleting photos off my computer to make room for this winter season. found some that i totally forgot about. it’s only been a year ago but seem such a long time ago. anyway, before i delete it, check um out…

i took this lineup shot of pipeline and backdoor last march when they were running the women’s contest out there. a perfect 4′ pipe/backdoor barrel with nobody on it. i couldn’t believe it. you’ll never see this on any other day…

this is ikaika from tahiti grab rail at pipe. he can surf, paddleboard, dive, and do pretty much anything that has to do with the ocean. a true waterman…

and this is satoshi kubota from miyazaki. i’ve known satoshi since i’ve been going to japan. he comes to hawaii for one month out of the year and always seems to get the best photos. here he is cruzing through a backdoor barrel… yeah satoshi, see you soon….

and this is aoi koike. aoi just won the japanese bodyboarding circut this year making her a 10X grand champion. that’s pretty amazing. she’s been the girl to beat and now that she’s retiring, next year’s up for grabs. congratulations aoi for accomplishing something that will probably never be done again…
***and last, got this email from ryu nakamura asking for your help. it’s a petition opposing the operation of the Rokkasho Nuclear Waste Reprocessing Plant in aomori, japan. discharging any kind of radiation in the ocean is screwed up. please sign the petition…. CLICK HERE…..