good evening. rain rain go away!! gosh, you’ve been here so long. just go away… wow, am i talking to the rain? this wet dark weather is making me crazy. and probably making a lot of other people crazy too. imagine saving months and months of salary to take your dream surf trip to hawaii’s north shore? and when you get there, it’s raining everyday. and to make things worst, the waves suck. and to make things moreworst, the electricity goes out for 2 days and there is nothing to do. if you came here 2 weeks ago, you must be bumming right now. i’m starting to go crazy with this weather and i can just imagine how the tourists are feeling. drove out to the east side today because it’s the only side the water is semi-clean. i saw a japanese couple walking in the rain along sandy beach all soaked. i felt sorry for them….

once passed makapuu, the water got clean and the winds were off-shore. 30mph + but off-shore. it was raining pretty hard that you could barely see rabbit island…

then the sun came out for 15 minutes and looked like the hawaii i’m use to seeing. makapuu shorebreak was going off. if i was a bodyboarder, i would be in heaven. bodysurfed one wave and almost broke my neck. not a good call. started to rain again shortly after and is still raining now. ugly yucky day….

this is how hawaii supposed to look like. this is waimea bay last summer. it don’t look anything like this right now and will take a while for the brown water to clean up. i can’t wait for the sun to come back out…
**tokura-san and the crew just got back from pohnpei, micronesia. check out some of the photos….

going surfing…. i think i’ve been in this same river. went there 10 years or so ago. all i remember was “rain, rain, and rain”… pohnpei is supposed to be one of the wettest places in the world. beautiful, but wet….

tokura-san told me they have the perfect setup. japanese food everyday even with a japanese menu. sounds so oishi….

and he told me the waves were good and barreling. i’m jealous… when i went there, the only thing that was barreling was my shower….

this is tokura-san and hiromichi-san. two great surfers. heard they had a great time surfing awesome waves. more photos coming later….

good morning. it was raining all last night and still is. i forgot what the sun looked like already. got south winds blowing so town is unsurfable. the north shore cleaned up a little but still bumpy. looks 3-5′ and nobody’s surfing as of now. i don’t think anybody’s surfing anywhere right now. maybe east side? umm… winds supposed to turn back to trades tomorrow. just have to wait and see. pipeline masters waiting period starting tomorrow. hopefully the next swell on tuesday can get things started. well, have a wet day and drive safe….

on december 7th, 1941, the japanese bombed pearl harbor just before 8am. that’s exactly 66 years ago today. over 2400 people died and it was the start to WW II. i remember asking my grandpa what he was doing that morning of the attack. he told me he heard the bombs and ran outside into a bunker he made. he said he was really scared. gosh, i could imagine how he was feeling. it must have been so loud and felt like the world was ending. my grandpa was second generation japanese/american so he was caught right in the middle. i don’t like talking about the war but every time december 7th comes around, it makes me think. war sucks!! nobody wins. nobody is right. war is wrong period…. we’re in the middle of a war right now and nobody is winning. young men and women are dying every single day. haven’t we learned yet? i guess not….

**because i’m american, i learned our side of the war as i was growing up. our school books made the japanese look 100% wrong. in japan, it must have been the same. us americans probably looked 100% wrong. but after i went to hiroshima, i found out that we were both wrong. and if japanese visited pearl harbor, i’m sure they will feel the same way. nobody won that war…. anyway, today is a day to remember the lives lost at pearl harbor….

good evening. still wet, windy, and stormy big waves today. when will this get over? wanted to surf or dive today but couldn’t do anything. stayed home all day and my eyes are burning from my computer. and my head is sizzling….. i feel like a computer dork or something. i could never do this everyday of my life. no way… still no school in a lot of areas, traffic, down trees, wet roads, dirty water, and a lot of pissed off people. still no power at waimea? our island looks like a typhoon came through. and we needed water? got plenty now. i heard this past storm was on national news. nuts… it’s freaking raining so hard outside my house right now. i guess it’s going to be another one of those nights. can’t wait till the clean water, clean waves, and sunny skies come back. should be soon…. well, i hope so…. until then, hang in there and be safe….
**surfed the net today and found some sick footage of the big winter storm 2 days ago. check this out…

CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO….

**and check out kelly slater and tom curren surfing this sick sanbar in california. CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO….

Let’s Learn Indonesian- Part 1

“nashi” in indonesia means rice. and “goren” means fried. so nashigoren is fried rice. this one if from the restaurant right in front of the surf spot in bali called “changu”. surf, eat, surf, eat….. bali style…

and “tabako” in indonesia means tobacco. this is a tiny island off north sumatra. we pulled up and they had these leaves drying in the sun. home made cigarettes….
**and “terima kasih” means “thank you”….
**and “saya chinta kamu” means “i love you”….
**and “jiggy-jig” means “your so beautiful”…. haha… just joking on that one… find out what jiggy-jig means youself. can’t say it here…..