good evening. gosh, the waves were good all over the island today…. winter season is here!! sunburned, red eyes, rubber arms, surfed out, and black skin. that’s me… i haven’t been surfing so much in my whole lifetime. surfed 5 hours yesterday and 4 hours today. more waves on the way. all i have to say is, oh my gosh…

check this photo from surfline. this was the first good day at pipe/backdoor. and this was nov. 28th. you think march and april will have good pipe days too? i think so….

drove by diamond head this morning. the waves were good again. little smaller than yesterday and much more crowded…. but still epic for november…

and check out lighthouse. this was 8am. everywhere in town was head high and perfect. hope you got some good waves today because i sure did…

pulled up to haleiwa around 2:30pm. watched it for a while and it looked 3′ or so. grabbed my small board to go and get a few. as i got out, some sets started to roll in. shit, the waves were pretty big. solid 6′ with maybe bigger sets. managed to get a few waves all across. i’m feeling pretty good at this point in the winter season. kind of surfed out but still want more. can’t wait till tomorrow morning because the north shore is going to be going off again. sleeping at 8pm. goodnight….

this was the other night at chucky cheeses. seth, josh, and kelia racing….

and last, this is colt. he’s the man right now. when everybody rushed the field at last weeks game, somebody tried to steal his helmet right out of his hand. i wonder how much that would have been worth on ebay? anyway, a couple other football players got their helmets ripped off. that really sucks because it just ruins it for everybody. now they are going to make it much harder for people to get on the field. so a couple of dummies ruined it for 50,000 fans… please return the helmets….
***and last, check out nao’s interview in the new surfing world magazine that came out today…

good morning. 7am on this beautiful clear cold thursday morning. looked out my window and not a cloud in the sky. what a difference from yesterday. the waves on the north shore are going off!!! good backdoor/pipeline. 30 guys out. 6-8′ with perfect conditions. the world cup and roxy pro on at sunset beach. going to be a great day. i’m out of here….

the other day while we were surfing with kelia, my sister was home painting and cleaning her room. lucky girl. anyway, when i went there the other day, i had to take a photo of this wall because i thought it was pretty cool. the top poster is her check for 2nd place in the roxy pro this past summer. i predict in the next year, kelia will win a major pro contest and eventually, she’ll be the youngest women’s longboard champion…. and as for the poster on the bottom. that’s a collectors EDDIE AIKAU poster. i think that was the 1998 contest poster. my sister has a few of these and i know some collectors that would kill for it. she gave me one too and it’s in a safe place…. then last, you got the door. that’s a surfers door. you got to leave the door like that. nice room sis, keep it clean…..
***by the way, the eddie aikau ceremony 4pm today at waimea bay. a possible go on saturday…. keep you posted….

good evening. gosh, how was that thunder and lightning lastnight and this morning. kind of scary. took a pass by diamond head and oh my gosh, the waves were going off!!! absolutely no one out. i’ve never ever in my lifetime seen not even one surfer in the water from kaiko’s to lighthouse. there were two reasons. the lightning, and nobody knew about this south swell. so even i was lucky…

we walked down to the beach and sat down to check the waves. right on the side was this hawaiian monk seal hanging out. he scared the shit out of me. took this snap and went in for a surf. came back out at 11:30am and he was still there….

surfed cliffs with 2 guys out. then paddled down to lighthouse and had it to ourselves. overhead and perfect. score baby….

then we went back this afternoon and this monk seal was still here in the exact same spot. it walked up to it and took this snap. he’s kind of cute. we surfed for 2 hours, came back in at 4:30pm and he was still there. i bet if you go there tomorrow morning, he’ll still be there.. but just don’t touch or distrub him. i made a few wonk!! wonk!! noises and he didn’t seem too happy about that… he gave me the same kind of look a girl gave me in a bar after i spilled my drink on her…
anyway, got 2 solid round in. more surf all over the place. north, south, east, and west. maybe the eddie aikau this saturday? check back…. goodnight….