good evening. what a super super duper day of surfing. left early this morning and and pulled up to off the wall. this is what it looked like….

this was at 7:30am. off the wall had solid 5′ sets and some super barrels. backdoor was a little smaller and not too many guys out. the sand is finally off the beach and the waves are finally barreling…. paddled out to backdoor and had the adrenaline rush. felt like making do do. i don’t know if it was the exciting feeling? or the nervous feeling? it was my first surf of the season out there and it always happens… but after my first wave, it all went away. nao was waiting patiently on the beach so after a few waves, i went in, jumped in the car, and headed straight to the spot. 3-5′ V-land. yeah, v-land was going off!! 10 out of a 10 as far as condition and size. got a few barrels and nao was the only one surfing the inside bowl. i don’t think she know’s how lucky she was. where was everybody today?? and yes, nao caught more waves than me again….

after our awesome session, took nao to watch a few heats at the roxy pro at sunset. the waves were pretty good and the girls were ripping!!! in a few years, nao will be in this contest for sure….

7/11/27 11:27….. trippy…

it started raining so we were about to come back to town. asked nao if she wanted to surf. she said yes! so took a drive by haleiwa and oh my gosh…. it was going offfff…… 4-6′ perfect off the point and only a few guys out. no wind, no crowd, and most important, no current. jumped in to get a few but my few was fewer than nao’s. once again, she caught more waves than me. this is what i have to say about surfing. the only way to get better is to surf more by catching a lot of waves. nao came 1 week ago and her surfing level went up 2 notches. she must have caught more than 50 waves today on the north shore at the most crowded time of the year. i thought i caught a lot of waves…. oh well… but yeah, v-land in the morning, then haleiwa in the afternoon were the places to be…. sorry you missed it….

today is nao’s birthday. she is 15 years old now. kelia was calling me all day to ask when we were coming back to town. the girls wanted to hang out so dropped them off at kahala mall. happy birthday nao!!!

and wanted to wish kenji sahara a happy birthday too…. your shot of jacksan will be waiting for you in hawaii. see ya soon…

came home today and check my email. got this from gordinho. this was my first wave i caught this morning at backdoor. barreled baby!!!! so stoked!!! a great way to start off the season. getting barreled is so dam addicting. once you get one, you just want more and more. i can’t wait till tomorrow…. thanks gordinho….

ohayo gozaimasu. 5:40am tuesday morning. the waves on the north shore are GOING OFF!!! it’s about 4′ now and should be 6-8′ later today. no winds so the conditions are epic!!! i’m out of here.. see you in the water….

gosh, 2007 japan typhoon season seemed so long ago. so many things went on since i got back to hawaii that i forgot all about “the day” in japan. this was sept. 5, 2007 in shikoku. yes, japan. i remember paddling out super stoked. the waves were big and perfect and i knew i was going to get big barrels. that’s how perfect it was. just take off, set the rail, and puinsai. i swear some 10′ big sets came in. we call those “obake sets” in japanese. obake means ghost. and yes, there were a few ghost sets that i had to dive under on. got drilled and held down pretty long. but getting pounded is normal. you have to if you want to get a good wave like this. this one was a double up in the inside. you wait there, be prepared for the obake sets… was this one worth it? oh yeah. i got barreled and spit out. kinsan was there and got the sickest photos. check out the next Surf1st magazine coming out today in japan. and somebody please bring me a copy…. arigato….

and check out this killer dove ad in the new Surf1st. hayato in chiba wearing the perfect camo wetsuit for surfing….. and diving….
***and please vote for colt brennan for the heisman trophy winner… VOTE HERE….

good evening. surfed kewalo’s early this morning with nao. the waves were waist high and perfect. it was only us and another girl out. nobody was around all morning. then got a call right after we got out of the water of a shark sighting. a big tiger shark was circling around the buoy. glad nao wasn’t out there to see that because if she did, she will probably never surf kewalo’s again. then we drove out to the east side and ended up at sandy beach. we were bodysurfing the shorebreak and it was pretty funny. it was a picture perfect day in hawaii and i’m glad i was outdoor all day because bad weather is on the way….

went to this place in kailua for lunch. super good and super healthy. i ate the veggie lasagna and marinated mushrooms with artichokes. so good… don’t remember the name of the cafe but i took some photos so it will be on the hawaii info page on go-naminori.com…

it was such a nice day all over the island. went to the east side and stopped by the pali on the way. so nice…

even nao was playing tourist. speaking about nao, i asked her where she started surfing. she told me she came to hawaii with her parents when she was 9 years old. she went to waikiki, got pushed into a wave, and that was the start of her surfing career. only 5 years ago. that’s pretty amazing….

this is lanikai beach today. if you watch the travel channel, lanikai beach will make the top 5 most beautiful beaches in the world all the time. such an amazing place…

there were two weddings on the beach at the same time side by side. it’s the first time i seen that. only in hawaii….
**back to back to back north/west swells on the way starting tomorrow. yeah!!! can’t wait to get barreled…

**and back to back to back to back days of rain on the way. check out the 5 day forecast. get your umbrella’s out….
**by the way, heard the police are coming hawaii for a concert. i’m there….. i went to the concert at the aloha stadium in the 80’s and it was nuts. can’t wait….

***and last but not least, sunny garcia’s back!!!! CLICK HERE FOR SURFLINE INTERVIEW….