5:45am. strong south winds. town is blown out. north shore came up. buoy is 11′ 14 seconds. big surf by the end of the day. heavy rain, lighting, thunder, flash flood warnings. not a really nice day in hawaii but there are waves so get out there…. see ya….

pro surfer dave rastovich, wife, and a really famous american actress hayden panettiere were just in taiji, japan protesting the dolphin killings. i was watching the national news tonight and it’s all over the internet. so many people around the world who didn’t know about it, knows now. gosh, this is such a touchy subject. something that i wanted to get to when i had time to write how i felt. i still don’t have time to write much about it now but all i can say is that there are two sides of the story. yeah, the video looked sick. so would video of filipinos killing little dogs and deep frying them in the philippines, and so would video of chinese cuting open the heads of live monkeys and eating their brains, and so would video of indonesians putting a knife in the heart of a baby pig and sticking a rod up its ass and cooking it. sitting at home here in america and judging what people do in other countries is wrong. but i give dave rastovich and the protesters credit for going there and seeing it with their own eyes. that’s the only way to get to the bottom. don’t get me wrong, it’s sad and i don’t agree with what they do in taiji. BUT, it goes deeper than just simply killing dolphins. it’s been hundreds and hundreds of years of culture in taiji. it’s a way of their life and it’s easier to understand the other side if you actually talk to local japanese fishermen. i know so many japanese fishermen and when i ask them about it, they act as if nothing’s wrong. and to them, nothing is wrong. ask they guys in america who slaughter cows and they will tell you the same thing. i can understand what people in different countries do because it’s a part of their culture and part of making a living. pretty much part of their everyday lives. for example, hawaiians use to kill turtles and eat them all the time. when i was a kid, i ate turtle once a week. i’ve seen the heads being cut off and the shells being ripped off right in front of me. it was part of the hawaiian culture. was that right? maybe not to the outside world, but it was something so normal to hawaiians here. everybody loves turtles, dolphins, whales, dogs, monkeys, and yes, pigs too. there are people in the world that won’t agree what some people do in other countries, but that’s their way of life. so after visiting taiji for myself, it’s not the dolphin killings your fighting to change, it’s hundreds and hundreds of years of japanese culture, and more important, the fishermans way of living. and to me, that’s a challenge….
don’t get me wrong, i love dolphins. if i didn’t travel around the world and seen what saw on tv last night about the dolphin killings, i would be pissed. but i’ve been traveling for years so i can understand the different cultures and way people live. i love the people, the culture, and everything about japan. i have so many japanese friends that are stuck in between this issue too. it’s really complicated and it’s so complicated that i don’t even know what i’m writing now. i know both sides to this controversary and for right now, i’m neutral. all i know is that for now, i won’t support any kind of dolphins or whales in captivity. so no more seaworld for me. where do you think those dolphins and whales come from? that’s a little dent, but a start….
**once again, this is a very touchy subject and i’m just trying to express my feeling. and please don’t send me any hate mail. i got one last time about this subject and it was from somebody who didn’t know the whole story. i don’t think he even had a passport. by traveling, i learned that in every situation, before you judge something or somebody, listen to both sides of the story and come to your conclusion. i have much more to say about this touchy subject but wait until i can sit down and really think about it. it’s a lot more complicated than you think. i guess what i’m trying to say is that everybody in america will probably see the video on tv or the internet. before making judgement, think about both sides before you come to your conclusion….

good evening. gosh, i surfed over 5 hours today. gas chambers in the morning and rocky point in the evening. surfed out. the waves were chest high but perfect conditions. and it wasn’t even crowded. got a lot of waves. back home and ready to sleep. it’s only 6:30pm but i’m done. good night…. oh, christmas island buoy is 7′ 17seconds. big south swell on the way. it’s half way here. figure, tahiti was huge on nov. 1st, christmas island which is in the middle of hawaii and tahiti picked it up today, which is nov. 3rd. so what do you think? yes, nov. 5th on south shores of hawaii. save gas, surf town….

on our last bali trip. one of the girls in our group got cut by her fin surfing uluwatu’s. that was amy. it was only the second day into the trip but she never once complained about it. i know other girls who would would cry and take the next flight back home. and i know guys like that too. but amy taped it up, stuck it out, and enjoyed the rest of the trip. well, maybe not all of it. imagine sitting down next to a guy who acts like a samurai preaching what he learned from the book “men are from mars, women are from venus”…. yeah, that was me… haha… how was your day amy? i got that from chapter 2. and for those of you who didn’t read that book, please do. we men have a hard time understanding women and that book helps a lot. i know it’s impossible to understand womens selfishness and stuff but it’s a start. haha…. just joking….

amy was also nice enough to send me the photo i forgot to take. a perfect sunset in wakayama from the roof at yamari shirasu factory. gosh, it was beautiful….

and this one too. i was thinking about the great time and memories i had these past 3 months. and many more to come….

by the way, this is the helicopter chasing the 15′ tiger shark away from chun’s last week. crazy yeah…..

good morning. 6:45am on this beautiful saturday morning. clean clean glassy conditions all around the island. town is chest high with 12 guys out at bowls already. my friend tat’s was calling me all morning telling me the waves were good. i was still sleeping but now i know why he called me. the waves are good. north shore looks 2′. a couple guys out at rocky point. epic conditions. well, i’m going to surf the north shore. see you in the water….

there was a high surf advisory for the south shore of hawaii yesterday. the waves weren’t too big but another big swell on the way. this is tahiti 2 days ago. yes, november 1st, 2007. something is wrong with our planet. why is there waves out of the south in november? i’m getting a little concerned…. moana drollet on the wave of the year…..

my friends from hawaii wanted to see the cloud 9 article in this months surfing world. you can’t get it here in hawaii so here’s page 106-107. this is shinpei horiguchi. shinpei deserves to be invited to the eddie aikau. if he ever gets invited, i’d put money down on this kid…

and this is japanese pro cameraman u-ske. one of the best fisheye water photographers in the world. this is at cloud 9 last month. u-ske can shoot, and he can surf. that’s cool….