good evening. gosh, another great day of surfing here in japan. the waves were going off and it’s got to be in my top 10 sessions ever. and top 5 biggest waves i surfed here. i’m still stoked and buzzing about this morning. got barreled=stoked. got pounded=not so stoked. but you got to pay your dues. that’s the cool thing about surfing. you can have fun and ride good waves. then just get slapped on your ass. everyday your taking a risk while surfing but it’s worth the thrill.
oh, went on a little boat trip this evening. too sunburned and tired to download the photos. post them tomorrow. anyway, have a great evening and good night sleep. zzzzz……..

check out this photo my friend derek sent me. this is him doing a wheely with his vw dunebuggy. yes, that’s on the streets of hawaii. derek’s nuts. i remember the old days when we use to race around town and drive like we were in a nintendo video game. now 20 years later, doing the same thing. my friends and i will never grow up. never…..

if you think parking is expensive in hawaii, take a look at this. every 10 minutes is about a buck. and there’s no limit. last time we went to drink at the beach house in hayama, our parking bill was more than our food bill. taxi……

what’s up everybody, check out the channel 9 hawaii news tonight at 10pm. sent guy hagi some shots from today’s typhoon swell. those photos are for all of you who think the waves in japan are small. if you come to japan, bring your shortboard and hold on to your balls…. i’ll post the photos later tonight. see ya….

good morning. 5am here in shikoku. getting ready for another day of big wave surfing. i got my 7’6 in the car so no excuses today. the waves will probably come down a lot tomorrow so i’m going to surf as much as i can. have a nice day and hope your as happy as i am right now….. see ya…

this is omaezaki in shizuoka 2 days ago. we checked the waves in the morning and it looked pretty fun. but it was 4 hours to our next destination so we decided to kick off…..

it’s early in the morning but all the RWSM crew were on it already….

we stopped by to get a drink. i picked this one. it’s called fitness water and it tasted like sweat. salty and sweaty….. yuck. shame on you gatorade….

from shizuoka to shikoku, we must have passed over 30 bridges; including the longest bridge in the world….

and the sunset was awesome….

after we picked glenn minami up from the airport, we got to the TSSC clubhouse 4 hours later. tired and hungry. tomoko-san, kesuke, and his girlfriend already had dinner waiting for us. it was sooooo good….. thanks so much….

this what ???? river mouth looked when i pulled up at 5:30am. by 9am, it was a totally different story. HUGE!!!
*more photos coming….