Life in Hawaii…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Suzuki-san came to Hawaii and wanted to surf and free dive.  Since the past hurricane swell was big and wild, we did both.  She surfed really good while riding the waves in.

And did some free diving on the way back out.  Haha.  The waves were so big that there was no way anyone could duck dive the sets.  So free diving was the only way to get back out.  

Her form was perfect!  

The last 5 days were amazing.  The swell was so different that it made Bowls feel like a spot I’ve never surfed before.  The wave broke differently and the take off zone was never in the same place.  

And when the sets came, it was big!  There may never be a swell like this in decades.

Speedster…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and cleaning up.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Light winds so getting clean.
Cloudy becoming sunny.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!