good evening. gosh, if you weren’t at bowls this morning. you blew it. the waves were pretty much going off!! solid 3′ peeling barreling lefts. nobody knew there was a south swell because not too many surfers were out. and the parking lot was empty. check out that unridden peeling left breaking in the background of this photo. and that wasn’t even a set. got in a 2 hour super fun session with naoka. then we passed by diamond head to get a look at the waves….

diamond head looked super fun too. light house only had 5 guys out and it was pretty good. summer surf in the winter season. i’m not complaining. the waves were still coming up in the evening so expect epic town tomorrow….
**and what the heck is this world coming too? 24 hours of tragedy in hawaii. NOWHERE in this world is safe anymore. yesterday, this crazy x-boyfriend chased his girlfriend down with his car on the east side. he smashed his car with his car and when she got out to run, he took out his shotgun and beat her to death with it. somebody tried to help but he got beaten by the gun too. the girl ended up dying on the street in the daytime while helpless people only could watch. they caught the guy but the damage was already done….. and today around noon, this 23 year old guy threw this 2 year old baby off the overpass onto the freeway. the baby died. and what makes it worst is that the baby wasn’t his and nobody knows who’s baby it is yet. gosh, very sad news coming out of hawaii. makes me feel sick. my heart goes out to the families affected by this. i’m lost for words…..

good morning. 6:30am thursday morning. still dark outside but can barely see the waves north shore looks junky again. north swell dropping with bumpy conditions. looking at town now and looks like there is some white wash out of the south/east with clean conditions. save gas, surf town…. gosh, i think i surfed town more than i surfed the north shore this year. when are we going to get a week of epic surf out there? everybody keeps on saying “next week, next week” but i’m not going to believe it till i see it… pray for surf!!! have a nice day!!!

check out last nights dinner. took the fish to my favorite chinese restaurant and they prepared the kumu’s black bean style. oh my gosh. all i can say is: wish you were here….

nakajima-san and satoshi were there…

what is this world coming too? glow in the dark pigs? what’s next?

you know, i’ve known madonna for over 20 years. haha. well, i’ve been watching this material virgin girl from kid time and i never thought she was hot. that’s until now. check out this photo of her. i think it’s the hair style because it looks pretty killer on her. and can you believe this chick is going to be 50 freaking years old this year? oh my gosh. they are right when they say women are like wine. they only get better with age…. cheers madonna…[:????????????:]

and last, check out the empty wave at ala moana bowls yesterday. that’s where i’m going today. see ya…

good evening. gosh, it was such a beautiful day in town today. no waves so better go diving instead. photographer nakajima-san and on the beach shop owner kubota-san came to town for some fun in the sun..

there’s this one place where we go diving that has a lot of turtles. they’re guarantee there all the time and aren’t that afraid of humans. i think it’s because they don’t see humans often. but it’s pretty cool to dive around with all the turtles hanging out….

nakajima-san took my olympus camera and shot some photos. gosh, i love my wetsuit. talk about stealth…. and i love my gun. talk about accuracy…

this is called a “roy”. these are good eating fish but sometimes they have ciguatera so be careful. along with this fish, i caught 5 kumu’s and a tako…. good size kumu’s that i just dropped off at the chinese restaurant for dinner tonight….

on the way in, we stopped by bowls on my boat to check out the waves. it looked pretty fun. if this was japan, there would be a hundred surfers out. but not in hawaii…. we call this flat and not too many guys were on it…

then we pulled up to kaisers. it looked fun there too. gosh, i wish i had my surfboard…. people come to hawaii to surf the north shore and when the waves are junk, the just sit around doing nothing. i guess they don’t know that just a quick drive away, they could be surfing super fun waves… i love town….

this was last night’s dinner. fresh steamed black bean kumu… oh my gosh…. how was it naoka?? tonight’ we are eating more fish. so good and healthy. have a nice evening….