good evening. went to the north shore this morning and everywhere was packed…. it’s winter holiday here in hawaii and seems like nobody is working these days. everybody is surfing…

this was lani’s about 9am. there were about 60 surfers out, mostly longboarders, and no parking. the waves looked pretty fun but no way i was going out there… so i took shun and ryota to a secret spot. haven’t surfed there in a while and almost forgot about it. nobody was out so we were lucky. it’s a left break with current and kind of hard to lineup. i had the two boys paddle out by themselves because i wanted to see if they could figure out the spot. after 5 minutes, they were catching all the good waves. gosh, these kids have pretty good wave knowledge. i know surfers my age who have been surfing for 20 years that get lost out there. it’s a hard wave but the kids made it look easy… it was double overhead for them and they were charging hard….

shun and ryota don’t only get barreled in the water, here they are getting barreled at ted’s bakery…

came back to town after lunch and oh my gosh, it was so beautiful…. this is what paradise is all about….

and this is not paradise. this is what’s going on in palestine… those aren’t termite eaten wood, those are bullet holes in the cement building…. peace guys….

good morning. 6:30am aloha friday. small waves around the island. north shore is 1-2′. town is knee high. semi clean conditions around the island. where are the waves???? i’m starting to go crazy. i can just imagine the guys staying out on the north shore…. anyway, i’m going out there anyway. maybe pipe will be 10′ but this afternoon….. hah…. i wish…. but you know what, it could be worst so i shouldn’t be complaining. merry christmas and have a beautiful day….
**round top drive reopened. it’s been over a year since they closed the road going up to tantalus. now i can make my rounds to one of the best night views in the world….


i remember the days back in the 80’s when occy and curren use to battle at the op pro at huntington beach. he’s one of the all time surfers in the history of surfing. he will surely be missed on the WCT tour. GO OCCY!!!

CLICK HERE FOR THE TRIBUTE TO OCCY…. DON’T MISS IT….

good evening. went out to the north shore with my nephews isaiah and joshua today. we met matchi and the boys out there and surfed twice. once at pipeline and once at v-land. the waves weren’t that big but it was still overhead for the kids….

this is isaiah moniz. isaiah is 13 years old and sponsored by billabong and hic. isaiah’s dream is to go to bali next year….

we pulled up to ehukai. pupukea looked pretty fun but was kind of crowded….

it was 2 years ago when i tricked my nephews. at that time, they never surfed pipe before and were so scared of that place. so i parked my car down at off-the-wall and we walked to the beach. they asked me where this was and i told them it was a secret beach break. so we went surfing at pipe. then about an hour into the session, isaiah was looking at the beach and thought something was strange. he was wondering why the volcom house and gerry lopez’s house was right in front of the break. then he asked me if this was pipe? i said no. sorry isaiah, uncle lied… but your going to thank me in the future because today was almost 2 years to the day and you paddled out there today and ripped it. oh, it was also shun and ryota’s first time surfing pipe. when we were waxing our boards by the car, shun told me he was nervous. so cute…. but the boys went out there and surfed good. i was stoked….

this is matchi, shun, isaiah, joshua, and ryota on the north shore. we just came in from surfing v-land and oh my gosh, it was so cold…. i wore a long sleeve top and was still cold. the kids and i had my heater in my car on all the way back to town. i’m still cold. going to take a hot shower and get under some warm blankets. good night….