good morning. 7am on this beautiful clear cold thursday morning. looked out my window and not a cloud in the sky. what a difference from yesterday. the waves on the north shore are going off!!! good backdoor/pipeline. 30 guys out. 6-8′ with perfect conditions. the world cup and roxy pro on at sunset beach. going to be a great day. i’m out of here….

the other day while we were surfing with kelia, my sister was home painting and cleaning her room. lucky girl. anyway, when i went there the other day, i had to take a photo of this wall because i thought it was pretty cool. the top poster is her check for 2nd place in the roxy pro this past summer. i predict in the next year, kelia will win a major pro contest and eventually, she’ll be the youngest women’s longboard champion…. and as for the poster on the bottom. that’s a collectors EDDIE AIKAU poster. i think that was the 1998 contest poster. my sister has a few of these and i know some collectors that would kill for it. she gave me one too and it’s in a safe place…. then last, you got the door. that’s a surfers door. you got to leave the door like that. nice room sis, keep it clean…..
***by the way, the eddie aikau ceremony 4pm today at waimea bay. a possible go on saturday…. keep you posted….

good evening. gosh, how was that thunder and lightning lastnight and this morning. kind of scary. took a pass by diamond head and oh my gosh, the waves were going off!!! absolutely no one out. i’ve never ever in my lifetime seen not even one surfer in the water from kaiko’s to lighthouse. there were two reasons. the lightning, and nobody knew about this south swell. so even i was lucky…

we walked down to the beach and sat down to check the waves. right on the side was this hawaiian monk seal hanging out. he scared the shit out of me. took this snap and went in for a surf. came back out at 11:30am and he was still there….

surfed cliffs with 2 guys out. then paddled down to lighthouse and had it to ourselves. overhead and perfect. score baby….

then we went back this afternoon and this monk seal was still here in the exact same spot. it walked up to it and took this snap. he’s kind of cute. we surfed for 2 hours, came back in at 4:30pm and he was still there. i bet if you go there tomorrow morning, he’ll still be there.. but just don’t touch or distrub him. i made a few wonk!! wonk!! noises and he didn’t seem too happy about that… he gave me the same kind of look a girl gave me in a bar after i spilled my drink on her…
anyway, got 2 solid round in. more surf all over the place. north, south, east, and west. maybe the eddie aikau this saturday? check back…. goodnight….

good morning. 6:15 on this raining dark wednesday morning. gosh what a change from yesterday. today is dark and the waves look junky everywhere. the north shore is 4-6′ and coming up. expect 10-12′ by this afternoon. the conditions are nothing like yesterday. got a little morning sickness to the waves and weird winds already. it might clean up but just have to see. town has a little south swell. chest high at diamond head with bumpy conditions. today is the kind of day you have to look for waves. the normal spots aren’t good so got to hit those secret spots. that’s where i’m going to check right now. have a nice wet day….

want to know how good the waves were yesterday? check out sunset. i took this around 11am when the roxy pro was going on. megan abubo was the man… oh, i mean the woman… she was killing the waves and made me feel grateful for quitting contests. she would have whipped my ass out there…. hope she wins the triple crown…. go megan….

we went to chucky cheeses last night to celebrate nao’s birthday. had a blast. i think i had the most fun in there. and making the most noise… haha…

the salad bar is the best. my favorite in hawaii. here’s kelia and alyssa loading up the one trip salad bowl….

there’s this dancing machine in there. you have to follow the screen and make the right dance steps. the girls were ok. they are just lucky i didn’t grease my hair back and put on my dancing shoes… i taught john travolta in saturday night fever how how to dance… just ask my high school friends. haha…. here’s julie, kelia, and birthday girl nao…

then kelia and alyssa tried. and to think, i use to go to this exact same place back in the days for high school dances. it use to be called “showbiz pizza”. do you remember? september? …..
***just wanted to congratulate josh moniz for getting 4th in the rell sun menehune contest last weekend. and also wanted to congratulate seth moniz for getting 2nd in his division getting 1st the longboard division. good job boys…

***they are expecting to finish the roxy pro today. and hold some heats in the o’neill world cup of surfing. check out the live steam by CLICKING HERE….