good evening. gosh, today was such a beautiful day again. i got up early and headed down to queen’s with kelia. my sister told me she’s been ripping so i wanted to see it for myself. we only stayed out for an hour but i could tell by the few waves she caught, her confidence level is up. she’s going with the flow of the ocean and her surfing got a lot better from the last time i seen her…

kelia has been doing this new trick recently. the first time i seen it, i freaked out. how the heck? she would stand on the nose hanging five with only one foot. i got the sick shot today but you won’t be able to see it for a while. it’s one of those shots that will make some magazine for sure so i want to save it. kind of like the dane kealoha photo. it’s amazing how much kelia matured in her surfing and she’s only going to get better and better. i’m stoked to be able to document her progress….

here are some more shots from this morning. i’ve been learning some new things about my camera. things i learned off the internet. i figured out so many mistakes i was making. mistakes like using a cheap shitty filter on my freakin expensive lens. kind of defeats the purpose. i took that piece of crap off and the photos are so much sharper now. gosh, why didn’t anybody tell me that earlier???

there were even some barrels out there this morning….

this japanese girl was ripping today. sorry i forgot your name…. gomenasai….

i went to drop off kelia after we surfed. kalua was so happy to see her back home. oink oink….
**after driving to every single computer store in hawaii to find a hard drive, i finally found one at UH bookstore. hope it works… then i jumped in at kewalo’s for a surf. the waves were 3′ and so good. the rights were barreling.. i took off on my first wave, pulled into the barrel, then while i was looking out the hole, i seen some asshole dropping in. oh my gosh!!! i had to bail. i was pissed. i took 2 deep yoga breaths and went in. i thought to myself, i won’t be able to catch my flight to japan on monday from jail. come on guys, stop dropping in. that’s something i would never ever do… haha. paybacks a bitch….

good morning. 6am here on this aloha friday. the waves are GOING OFF!!!! i seen some solid 4’+ sets at bowls. 12 guys on it now. the swell looks solid, the winds are light, and the conditions are epic. could this be the swell of the summer? maybe…. i’m out of here. see you in the water…..

i went to drop off a 50lbs bag of corn yesterday to kalua. gosh, that pig is huge. getting bigger and bigger. he must weigh around 300lbs and is not even 1 year old. been going up in the mountains checking out the pigs and all of kalua’s brothers and sisters are gone. even the mom. i guess the dogs got them but that’s part of life for a wild pig. kalua seems to be happy and loving life. he gets to eat more mango’s than i do. lucky pig…..

when i saw him eating these perfect ripe mango’s, i got jealous. recently, a lot of people have been asking me about kalua and i just want to let them know that he’s perfectly fine. just a little overweight. just a little.. haha…[:??$B”y(B???:]

the cool thing about japan is that there is so much culture. there are so many temples almost ever where you go. in the city and in the country. this is a temple in wakayama. i still don’t understand the full meaning of temples but when ever i see one, i can feel the energy…..

good evening. gosh, what an awesome day. i was going to surf bowls this morning but i changed my mind and went to big rights. good thing because at 9am they kicked out all the surfers from waikiki to tennis court. so big rights was like the line where you could surf. why? because they were practicing for the US Air Force Thunderbirds Show. anyway, while we were surfing, the 6 jets came out of the blue and flew right over us. they were doing all kind of tricks and i swear we had the best seats ever. it was awesome…..

ever since i saw the movie “Top Gun”, i wanted to be a pilot. i even enlisted in the Air Force but changed my mind after i found out i had to go to college first. it was my dream and seeing them today in action, i wish i was up there. i probably would have threw up but it looked like a rush…. the show is this saturday in waikiki at 2:30pm. they are expecting 150,000 people. i’m there for sure….

this was ala moana park today. the waves were perfect 3′. super fun but packed. i’m just enjoying myself now and taking it easy. going to be pulling into big barrels in the philippines next week so i’m waiting for that….

this is brandon’s dog. imagine this bull biting you in the ass. must hurt…..

and this is some secret spot in japan. photographer sekida-san sent me this from typhoon 5. is it really that thick? yes, it is. i surfed it during typhoon 6 and it was even thicker than that…..

and last, major upsets today at the boost mobile pro. mick fanning and andy irons eliminated by wildcards dane reynolds and jordy smith. kelly slater is still going so he’s going to be the guy to beat….. stay tuned….