good morning. it’s been 6 years since 9/11. where were you when it happened? i remember i was sleeping and got a phone call at 3am from bobby higa. i thought he was drunk calling me up to bother me but all he said was “turn on the tv”. right as i turned it on, i saw the second plane go into the second tower. oh my gosh, i thought i was dreaming. i thought all the airplanes in the air had terrorist on and they were going to crash into hawaii too. it as kind of scary. we’re still at war trying to fight terror and it ain’t going to end anytime soon. what a price we have to pay for our FREEDOM… but it’s worth everything we live for……
i saw this magazine in japan last week. it’s called “hawaii style” and there was an article on things to do in hawaii. alan and the guys at sponavihawaii introduced some adventurous things to do. here’s one….
try paddle boarding with tony moniz… i was pretty happy when i seen this shot of tony and kelia. father and daughter doing what they both love. just being in the ocean….
and riding the same wave together. that’s awesome….
**anyway, sponavihawaii.com just had the grand opening of their website and it looks pretty killer…. CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT SPONAVIHAWAII.COM….
***also, yuko shimajiri is in malibu surfing a contest there. got some cool photos on her blog. CHECK OUT YUKO’S BLOG BY CLICKING HERE…. ganbatte ne yuko!!
***well, the waves look fun. waist/chest high and epic glassy conditions. 7 guys out bowls. 2 guys out at the park. gosh, where’s everybody? the water looks good for a surf or a dive. ummm….. hard decision… have a nice day….
Remembering 9/11 Six Years Later…..
Life…..
good evening. went to surf bowls today around 10am. perfect timing. seen the locals coming in from the morning session. tats, hiro, and keiko told me the waves were fun. yes it was fun. shoulder high sets with perfect conditions. only had 3 guys out when i paddled out and 2 of them were japanese. i think i scored. got some perfect long lefts today. felt good to be back in hawaiian waters….
carter met me out today on his new glenn minami bullet. i let carter try mine a month ago and he was hooked. he got his own now….
i met these two girls at aoi koike’s bodyboard tour 2 years ago. i was ready to jump into the water when they called me. i was so happy they remembered me. they both came to hawaii for only 2 days and they scored today. perfect bowls with nobody out. what a small world….
i’m a booring guy when it comes to movies. i go to a movie theater once in every 3 years if i’m lucky. i think the last movie i went to see in the theater was Titanic. anyway, been hearing a lot about this movie “Life” in japan. it’s a documentary about a pro japanese windsurfer that passed away due to cancer. i heard a lot was filmed in hawaii so i really wanted to see it. it was playing in osaka so i went to go check it out. gosh….. bring the tissue… i don’t want to say anything about this movie because i think everybody should see it. it’s about love, courage, family, friends, respect, and dedication. i was glued to my seat while watching it and after i left the theater, i felt sad, but yet, so happy. doing what i do, i totally felt the feelings of the actors in the movie. it was sooo real….. please go and see it. i heard 6,000 people showed up to watch it in waikiki when they showed it a couple of weeks ago and nobody was complaining. i wish i went too because i heard the family, and actors went up on stage after. it must have been awesome….
this is the family the the documentary is based on. i wish i can meet them someday and give them all a hug…. gosh, i feel like crying now….
2007 MTV Awards…..
good morning. 6:30am on this sunny day in hawaii. waves are chest high in town with 12 guys out at bowls. the waves look super fun. 3 guys are at the park where it’s a little smaller. got a south swell and north swell coming this week. today, i’m surfing. have a nice day…..
last night was the MTV awards and britney spears didn’t look as good as she use to. was it because of too much partying?? well, at least her hair grew back….
you want class? check out alicia keys…. that’s freakin class…. and this chick can sing too….
i was looking through photos from last year and this one made me laugh. the guy to on the right of the photo holding the apple is japan pro surfer maoh toda. maoh is such a cool and funny guy. we went to the maldives last year on a boat trip for 2 weeks. it was 2 weeks of fun, fun, and fun. it was also the first time i surfed with him and i was amazed on how good and smooth he surfed. i’m stoked i met him on that trip and can’t wait for another “jacksan” night with him…. oh, the guy on the left eating the orange is pro surfer yasuaki higashikawa. another good surfer, cool and super funny guy…..
i was playing around with my water camera and snapped this shot of maoh duck diving. the water in the maldives is as clean as it gets….
**oh, maoh has a blog. got some pretty funny photos on there. check it out by CLICKING HERE…..
**also wanted to congratulate jasmin on her recent birthday. sorry i missed it…
i stole this photo off zuccho’s blog. zuccho is another awesome surfer, mellow, and a really nice guy. zuccho was JPSA champion so many times. he was the man to beat when i used to surf JPSA’s…. check out ZUCCHO’S BLOG BY CLICKING HERE…..