We drove out to the North shore early this morning.  I knew the waves were going to be pretty big but I didn’t say anything until we were almost there.  We checked Haleiwa first and after I saw this set, I knew that somewhere was going to be really good.  But I didn’t know if Mighty Mouse would be able to make it out.  The waves were really clean but the ocean was still a little wild.  From the beach, it looked very dangerous.  

We arrived to the spot and watched solid 5′ sets barreling.  Nobody out and it was a little out of control.  These are the days we train for.  These are the days we challenge ourselves and see if Boot Camp really works.  After some deep meditation, we paddled out into the wild sea.  Mighty Mouse caught the 3 best waves of her life.  No mistakes and all well ridden.  Yes, she passed the test as this spot is for experts only.  It also turned out to be my best surf session of the year so far.  We drove home happy as the adrenaline was still sky high.

The reason I can live the life I live is because of Tokura-san.  We surfed and had drinks together since 1992.  That’s 33 years of happiness and still going strong!  Tequila!!!

Yesterday once more:  Knee high Bowls and clean conditions.  Surfing in the dark with Sagawa-san.

This is a really nice wave and a really nice bottom turn.

Nice wall and nice spray.

First time in Hawaii so this must feel so good.

Nothing beats this morning view.

The nice and slow bottom turn.

Right board, right timing.  Mighty Mouse flowing.

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Southeast winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s been hard to find clean water because of all the rain.  But when you do find it, it’s pretty amazing!  There are a couple of areas around Ala Moana that will always be clean 365 days a year.  This place never fails.

These girls couldn’t surf before.  They couldn’t snorkel before.  They were basically land lovers.  Haha.  And they both use to get really seasick on the boat.  But now, they are mermaids enjoying the ocean like never before.

Being calm, silent, and gliding with flow.  Looking for sea life and listening to the whales singing.

Surfing is the ultimate feeling.  Free diving is the ultimate feeling.  When you can do both in one morning, you’re going to have an ultimate day.

Celebrated another Moniz baby birthday.  The family is still growing and growing.  It’s cool to see 3 generations all in one house celebrating together.  These moment are priceless.

I have 5 nephews, 2 nieces, 4 grandnephews, and 4 grandnieces.  And more are on the way as we speak.  OMG, I feel so old!  Haha.

Instead of playing on electronic devices and watching tv, the kids are outside physically playing on skateboards, scooters, basketballs, and pulling wheelies on dirt bikes.  Everybody has some sort of natural talent and are pushing the limits.  That’s how you achieve greatness…