Thursday January9日 2025年

January 7, 2025 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Surfing fun Bowls with Ooki-san!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore still solid 10-12′ today.
Ala Moana chest high and bumpy.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
South winds at 10mph.
Sun, clouds, haze, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Sunburnt and Sleepy

Round 1:  I was thinking the waves were going to be very bad this morning because of the forecasted strong South/West winds.  BUT, the winds were more from the South so the waves were super fun.  Perfect for Kamo-san’s first surfing experience in Hawaii!

A very athletic and super positive guy.  Enjoying each and every ride.

First time surfing in Hawaii and smiling the whole way.  This is what surfing is all about.

Round 2:  It was Ooki-san’s third time surfing together and it was a pleasure to see him getting better and better each time.  Cool and calm surfing.

The waves were so fun today.  Nobody out and good chest high waves if you could find them.  Ooki-san missed this wave so I rode by and said “thank you!”

Super warm and protected from the sun.  These 1mm Dove wetsuits are the best for Hawaii.

From the beach, the waves looked terrible.  From the water, it looked super fun.  And once you’re on one, it was the best feeling to be surfing at Bowls with nobody around.  Nice rides today guys!

Round 3:  A different secret spot session and we scored again.  Nakahodo-san is a very lucky surfer because we surfed so many spots since he got here.  All so good!  Sorry no photos from secret spots anymore….

Sunburnt and sleepy.  Goodnight.

Downward Doggie

Back to yesterday Round 2:  There is a wave that breaks over jagged rocks and a very shallow reef.  If you fall, you will hit the reef.

And the wave comes from super deep water and hits the shallow reef, thus making for some powerful waves.  

Nobody was out as expected because it was too shallow.  But coming from Okinawa, this is normal for Nakahodo-san.  He was surfing like he was at home.  

You can’t get a better view than this.  It was so beautiful!  

This photo is cool.  I was fixing the boys boat and we figured out the problem.  It’s an amazing feeling to fix something that has been broken for a long time.  Now the boat is a lot safer and I pledged to check on the boys boat once a year.  Just to double check things and make sure it’s safe.  The coolest part of this photo is Joshua’s dog on the left side of the photo.  Look close as he’s doing the coolest downward dog.

This downward dog pose looks better than the one my yoga teacher taught me.  Haha.