Nakahodo-san on a perfect wave at Laniakea.

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore 2-4′ from the north. Laniakea good again.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph coming today.
Cloudy and rainy.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We were lucky to score some challenging waves yesterday.  Surfing these kind of waves will only help your ocean IQ.  These are the days that makes a surfer stronger and smarter.

Nakahodo-san taking off late on this one.

Had a great time in Waikiki last night.  I haven’t done this in years so it was really fun.  Dukes Waikiki is one of the most busiest restaurants in the nation.

The dessert was one of the best I’ve ever tried.  I’ll go back just to eat that.

Spending time with two legends.  Tony Moniz and Tokura-san are legends in the international surf industry.  They first met each other back in 1980 at Jeffrey’s Bay in South Africa.  Fast forward 45 years and now we’re having dinner on Waikiki Beach where surfing was born.  Lots to talk about and lots in common.  Two of the biggest influential people in my life.  I am where I am today because of these two legends.

This morning we drove around for 2 hours looking for waves.  We were looking for something exciting and we got more than that.  Right as we paddled out, the big storm hit.  Not even 5 minutes into our session, everything turned black.

We’re out in the middle of the sea, we can’t see land, we can’t see anything 5′ away, rain stinging our eyes, then everything turned blinding white.  It was one of the craziest moments ever.

Sunday Round 1: Go Nakahodo-san. We are crazy storm riders!

Strong wind, heavy rain, thunder, lightning, and surfing. It was so crazy but also so beautiful!