I went down early to look at the ocean.  Was contemplating going diving or going surfing.  It was a very hard choice to make.

I could see Molokai and Lanai clearly.  These kind of clear mornings you can only see in the winter months.

Decided to surf and just flow.  Checked my secret spot and it was looking good and nobody was out.  All it takes is 1 hour here and you’re totally content for the day.

The waves were perfect.  The water was clean, very warm, and very refreshing.

Will be eating fish all week.  Tonight it’s papio sashimi, miso soup, and rice.  The fisherman’s dinner.  Healthy and very appreciative on how the ocean can provide such delicious meals.

I just finished watching the 1997 Japanese drama called “Beach Boys” on Netflix.  Half way through the series, I was looking at this actor and he looked so familiar.  I knew who he was but my mind wasn’t processing it right.  Then I remembered!!!  OMG, that is Hayato’s dad!  Mr. Mike Maki!  

This drama was filmed almost 30 years ago and it was around the same time I met Hayato.  I also met Hayato’s dad back then and now I can see a clear resemblance.   OMG, I had chicken skin.  That was a cool drama.  You should watch it because that was at a time before technology messed up our world.  Back then it was just about family, friends, culture, and surfing!  It brought back some of the best memories of my life.  Summer in Japan in the 1990’s was the very best of the best!  And if you experienced it, you will know what I’m talking about.  Beach houses, cold beers in the hot sun, crazy firework shows, surfing, barbecues, and FREEDOM!!!  No social media back then so nobody cared what you did.  You just be yourself which was super cool!

This is spearfishing.  This is beautiful!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 8-12′ and getting bigger. Pipeline Masters ON!
Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and clean.
Light winds so perfect conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!