Yesterday once more:  Carter on a morning set!

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Honolulu Marathon ON today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

December continues.  Another epic morning with the most perfect conditions you could ever ask for.  Kyle again finding the early morning swells.

It’s turning out to be the best December on the south shore so far.  The first 7 days we got good surf and tomorrow supposed to be even bigger.

Lots of waves, not too many surfers, so a few empty barrels.

Muscle memory continues as surfing get easier and easier for this girl.  Calm and cool rides all morning long.

Hope this magic December ride doesn’t stop.  Keep on surfing!

After high school, I use to surf chest high Sandy Beach everyday.  That was my comfort zone and I was happy and content.  THEN, my sister started dating big waver pro surfer Tony Moniz.  Instantly, he took me to the North Shore every single day.  We would surf the biggest and craziest waves out there.  He didn’t care that I couldn’t hold my breath for more than 10 seconds.  He just took me out on the biggest days and say “GO!!!”  So yes, that’s how I learned how to surf big waves.  After heavy wipeouts, almost drowning multiple times, and getting stuck on the reef, nothing scared me anymore.  I remember some days we paddled out to 3rd reef Pipeline.  Tony would be taking off and getting barreled.  I would be getting smashed by wave after wave.  But I never gave up.  A year later, there was a Hawaiian Pro Contest at Pipeline in 1988 and Tony entered me into it.   In my first round, the waves were 15′ and closing out.  I waited and waited in the impact zone and this crazy 2nd reef wave came straight to me.  I knew I had to go so I put my head down, paddled hard, and took off on this beauty.  I’ll never forget that barrel for the rest of my life!