Dawn Patrol: Back at Backdoor. Always searching for the barrel! I love it!

Tourist Pollution:  Leave the turtles alone!!!

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore 4-6′ and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
No wind so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I woke up 3:30am this morning, did my daily workout, loaded my 8’6 in the car, and planned to go surf Sunset Beach.  Right before I left, I looked at the conditions and it was still disorganized and messy.  I knew it was going to clean up fast but I had to be back to town early.  Umm….  I took the 8’6 out of my car, loaded my gym shoes and foil and headed for my 2nd and 3rd workout of the day.  1 hour in the gym and then straight to the ocean.  Today turned out to be the best foiling day in a very long time.

I searched for waves and came across this perfect left and right.  Only one guy out. The waves were so good.  Gosh, I wish I had my shortboard!!!

Took off on my first waves and it felt so free.  I was flying again!

The smoothest conditions you could ask for.  The foil was loving it, and so was I.

I closed my eyes and imagined doing round house cutbacks at big Sunset Beach.  It’s incredible how such a small wave on a foil can give you a big adrenaline rush.  I did 3 rounds of working out and I was finished by 9am.  Sauna, early dinner, and sleep.  Tomorrow’s looking like a great surf day!