Volcanic hazy sunrises continue…

Good morning 5am.
North shore 15′ and growing.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Light South winds.
Sun, haze, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

When I picked up Saito-san early this morning, he was looking at an app called Windy.  That’s the wind forecast app that most surfers use these days.  BUT like always, the South Shore is different.  Windy was calling for South winds but it was actually very calm.  The parking lot was empty, nobody was out, and it was super fun.  Score!

These are the days I like the most.  Observing the ocean changing minute by minute.  Turtles everywhere and nobody around.

Saito-san was very happy to surf because right after this, he had to go to the airport and catch a flight back to Japan.  He must have had a very good sleep.

Surf and smile.  That’s how to enjoy it the most.

Came home and cut up some fresh fish that Seth and the boys caught.  I’m so grateful for those kids thinking about me.  Each bite I enjoy and each bite makes me happy.  Thanks boys!

Here is the second shot of the sequence.  I’m paddling my hardest, I see the traffic, and I decide in that split second to go for it.  John John Florence is still on the right of me watching to see if this old man actually goes.  Haha.  The 4 surfers in front of me are still there as 2 of them started their duck dive.  I’m trying to keep calm, but at the same time, I know this is risky because of the traffic.

Here I’m taking off and it looks perfect for now.  I’m popping up at the perfect time.  This is when John John pulls back as you can see on the left side of this photo.  I knew the angle I needed to take to get right under the barrel.  Yes, no time and no space for a bottom turn on this one.  It’s just take off, pull in, and hope for the best!

The next shot is when everything starts to go wrong.  Coming soon.