I went to check the waves this morning in the dark and even though it looked fun, I decided to take a day off.  I’ve surfed over 100 rounds since January 1st so my body felt like doing something else.  That something else was to take a long walk.  I only had slippers so running wasn’t an option.

I walked around looking at trees, the ocean, and of course, the waves.  I saw a couple fun spots with nobody out.  Even seeing that, I still enjoyed my walk.

Very interesting buildings near Diamond Head.  They call this the Gold Coast of Oahu.

Back to yesterday.  Watari-san’s been surfing for 5 years and he caught his best waves of his life in Hawaii.

A super cool guy with a good surfing style.  More big swells on the way.  My bruised ribs finally healed so feeling 100% again!

Yesterday once more:  Boot Camp Day 2 with Watari-san!

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 10-15′.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I got a text from Benji Brand saying “You see this?! Dream shot!! Wow”

I was lucky enough to connect with photographer Josh Bystrom last week at Backdoor.  There is a story to this that SWELLNET.COM published.  It’s pretty cool because I pulled into this barrel and saw this lone photographer in the right place at the right time.  This was one of the big days at Pipeline/Backdoor so no other photographer was brave enough to swim and wait in the scariest spot you need to get a photo like this.  You almost have to be crazy.  Yes, the photos from the beach are good, but nothing compares to being in a huge barrel like this together.  Of the hundreds of water shots I’ve gotten at Backdoor throughout the past 40 years, this has to be one of my best.  Dream shot for sure!

*CLICK HERE FOR THE STORY ON SWELLNET.COM.