Yesterday once more:  The perfect swell ridden by Kotaki-san!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  It’s so cool to see the girls pushing each other to higher levels of surfing.  Each session I can see improvements and much better technique.  Ogasawara-san charging a set on the 6’4.

Keeping calm and enjoying the ride.

Kotaki-san surfs really smooth and is always in control.  Lots of flow and completing the long rides.

If I trust you, I will position myself in your path just to get these kind of photos.  If I don’t trust you, I won’t.  So the goal is to keep calm and you will get a photo like this someday.

Mighty Mouse has put in so many hours in the ocean.  Practicing hard each day and learning so much.  Her wave knowledge has gotten pretty high.

A different board each day ridden how it wants to be ridden.

Round 2:  This afternoon was amazing.  A super high tide so very easy to surf.  It seemed like the waves got a lot bigger than this morning.

Smooth style aiming straight towards the Rainbow Tower.

When I checked my thermometer at home before I left to surf, it read 97F.  That’s 36C.  OMG,  if you don’t have good protection, you will burn.  Mighty Mouse was fully covered.

Head high sets and some even bigger.

I had a blast on my twin fin.  It’s crazy how much I love surfing again!

Hurricane Lala left a lot of damage all over the islands.  Please be careful because I actually saw a lady sitting under this bus stop.  If that falls, she’s dead.

Always waiting for the perfect wave.

And when it comes, we ride it!

Good morning 2:50am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!