good windy cold thursday morning. 7am and it’s freezing. north winds making junky cold conditions on the north shore. town is clean but super small. not a great day to surf. a better day to work so that’s what i’m going to do. or maybe longboard? umm…. more junky surf and winds on the way till next week. hope you can find something fun to do… have a nice day!!!
**as you know, i love to explore and meet people. so when i had the chance to check out this little village in the middle of indonesia last year, i jumped at it. people think traveling is dangerous. i agree. that’s if you don’t know where your going and how to interact with people. i didn’t expect anybody to speak english there but it didn’t matter. i know about 10 words in indonesian and a lot of hand gestures, which was more than enough. and when i go somewhere, i have an open mind. i’ll eat dog, cat, or drink anything they offer me. if i get sick, i’ll worry about that later. i don’t even think about what can or could happen, i just go with the flow. that’s why i like to visit villages alone. if i’m alone, i’m not intimidating. but if i’m with 10 foreigners with cameras everywhere, it could get ugly. i’ve seen it happen before… so this trip, ceri from punahou came along with me. but before we got off the dingy, i told her that if something happens, it’s every man for himself… haha… just joking… i wouldn’t abandon a punahou graduate on some desert island. obama wouldn’t like that…. anyway, check out this little adventure. i wish someday you can all experience the things i do in life. this is hardcore traveling…

strong trades? east wind swell? straight to diamond head lighthouse again. same time as yesterday because i knew the tide was perfect. the only thing different was? 8 guys out?? shit, that’s crowded!!! i had fun yesterday with only 1 guy out. oh well, somebody has been telling everyone where to go. and it’s not me… haha… had a fun session until my nose poked me in my eye. luckily i can still see. gosh, surfing is dangerous…

hey, check out the cool presents coming next month on go-naminori. president of vertra and good friend bobby higa gave me some presents for our readers. who every wins this will score….

bobby also gave me some samples for the go-naminori house. this box will be there so stop by and grab some. i also have a lot in my car so if you see me at the beach, come and ask me for some. i’ll give you some so you won’t get burnt…. thanks again bobby….
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Puerto Escondido 6/2/2005