good morning. 6:30am and it’s still dark outside. i guess our days are getting shorter. and the waves got shorter too. it’s pretty small on the north shore right now. seen some waist high waves at pipe and rocky’s. actually it’s the smallest it’s been all year. pipe masters starts today but no way. today’s a good day for diving. ummmm….. anyway, what ever you do, have a nice day…

i took this photo off the surfline website. i really like this angle. i think the photographer shot it from rockpiles or something. super cool shot. check out how deep this surfer is. i can’t wait for my turn….

galen sent me this photo of the smaller day at backdoor. i was sitting next to i’kaika talking about the sharks in tahiti when he paddled for this one. i was watching it from the back and knew he got barreled. it takes talent to be able to get into a position like this with that huge board. i’kaika is probably the best stand-up barrel rider in the world. by the way, i’kaika is from tahiti….

todd’s party had lucky number raffle tickets. i think it was a dollar for each. so many companies donated things. check out these lucky grand prize winners. halekulani hotel two night stay w/breakfast at orchids ($1,600 value). that was a dollar well spent….

and last but not least. that guy in the middle between aunty laurie and myself is wendell kong. i owe a lot to wendell for introducing my blog to so many people. he’s always pushing it and i’m stoked about that. he’s a good surfer and tako diver. i get a lot of information for my blogs from wendell too. he’s a super cool guy from the east side that married a japanese girl from japan. since then, wendell turned into a samurai. haha. just joking wendell. see you in the water…

good evening. went for a weekend surf session with the weekend surf crew at laniakea. the waves were so fun and not too many people were out. at times, we had the whole inside rights to ourselves. score….

stopped on the way back through haleiwa to eat kiawe chicken. ever tried it? this place is awesome….

so juicy and so good. the shoyu/vinegar/chilipepper sauce is pretty dam good too…

prices aren’t too bad. and it caters to the japanese, which is pretty cool….

pipeline masters starting tomorrow, waves permitting. 2 solid swells on the way. 12 day waiting period with 3 days of competition. get ready to see the best surfers getting the best barrels in the world….
**and last, speaking of pipe, check out part 2 of the 2008 Women’s Bodyboarding Championships at Pipeline….

today laniakea was so fun. 2-3′ and uncrowded.
kyoo no laniakea wa sugoi yokatta desu. nami wa chisai kedo hito
anmari inakatta desu.