good morning. 6:45am and got some good news. there’s a little swell in town. waist/chest high sets at bowls with perfect conditions. got a few guys on it already. 10 guys out at the park. looks like a soft week swell but it’s better than nothing. north shore came down. 2-3′ and the sandbars should be fun. 25 guys at lani’s already. small fun clean surf day today. i’m going to the airport to pick up nao-chan, then go surf the north shore. have a nice day…

these are the photos from the tiger shark attacking the turtle outside of hawaii kai. gosh, i dive out there so many times and haven’t seen a tiger shark out there before. but now i know their out there. scary…

poor little turtle. thanks sheldon young for sending me these photos….

a new kelly slater book? wow, already? i read his last book “pipe dreams” while i was on a boat in the philippines. i thought it was pretty good because it gave kelly a personality. he’s human and has been through things in life that many people go through. but to pull off 8 world titles in the meanwhile, that’s crazy. and crazy is kelly. i’d predict he’d quit at 10 world titles. or maybe more. this guy is unstoppable and probably the only 2x retiree that is still way ahead of the competition….
if you guys didn’t get a chance to read his first book. you should before you read his new one. and for you japanese, now they have it translated in japanese so read it and maybe you can become 8 time world champion too…. but just to let you know, it didn’t work for me.. haha…

good evening. today was the first time in a long time that i could really surf. i mean surf a good wave without wearing a hat or sunglasses. i actually felt kind of naked… the waves at laniakea were pretty fun. i got so many fun waves. felt pretty dam good..

you know when lani’s is crowded when you can’t find parking. and when there are so many surfers crossing the streets…

i went to stop by the contest to watch some heats. sunny garcia, joel centaio, and some of the other hawaiian boys were ripping… the waves were 3′ and breaking rights and lefts. want to congratulate carissa moore for winning the womens division. go hawaii!!

last night i went to a new japanese restaurant with some friends. it’s called Bonsai and is located in the restaurant row. kind of japanese/local sushi and stuff. the hamachi sushi was pretty good….

the bar was pretty happening. live music, good food, and good vibe. i’ll probably go back there again soon…

and last, while i was in tahiti, my friend derek fixed my surfboards. derek is a perfectionist in everything he does so i knew he was going to do a good job. i had a big ding on my whole rail from somebody’s face hitting it but derek fixed it perfect. just like nothing happened…. so if you want the best ding repair on the island, send me an email and i’ll get your board fixed for a reasonable price. thanks derek….
** i was just watching the depressing news and the stock market crashed again today. put your seatbelts on because this isn’t the end of our world recession. spend wisely and put some of that paycheck in the bank. also, rain, rain, and rain on the way so don’t wash your car. have a great evening….

laniakea wa sugoi ii nami desu. 3-5′ and tottemo good desu…..
tanoshikatta… i had a great session today at lani’s. clean and
fun….