good morning. 6:15am wednesday morning. still got the north swell running out in the country. lani’s is going off again. and probably pupukea too. i wish i could go out there but too many things to do today. town is small. waist high with a freak chest high set if your lucky. 8 guys out at rockpiles, 12 guys out at bowls, and 25 or so at the park. i’m going out to bowls and hope it’s uncrowded like it was yesterday. going to catch my 3 waves and stick my board in my bag for japan. i was packing a little last night and i’m really excited this time about traveling. i can’t wait…. anyway, gotta go. have a nice day….
and check puerto rico freaking going off!!! i didn’t know it could get that big over there. that’s pretty nuts… check surfline.com for the full story….
**got an email from a friend in hawaii. i don’t know why, but he sent me this email “Who is this chick? She’s awesome.” i’ve never seen or heard of her before. anyway, here’s her photo and link to her website. can somebody tell me who this is????
CLICK HERE FOR MAHO TANAKA WEBSITE….
FW: Who is this chick? She's awesome…
I Got a Dream!!!
good evening. yet another beautiful day here in hawaii. paddled out to bowls this morning around 8am and nobody was out. i swear not even one local guy was out there. i was kind of freaking out because the waves were going off. chest high on the sets and perfect rights and lefts. then jeannie chesser paddles out and it was just her and i for a while before the boys started making their way out. where the heck is everybody? or is it just that i have lucky timing? well, just have to see tomorrow morning because i’m surfing early again…
when ever i go on a long trip, i take the bands off my speargun and stick them in the refrig. that way, it lasts longer and keeps it from cracking. once i forgot and when i came back to hawaii, i had to change all my bands on all my guns. it took time and money so i always remember. gosh, feel like diving now….
thanks takeshi-san for sending me this photo of isonoura. i like it there for many reasons. for the nice people, for the best yamari shirasu in japan, for the biggest creamy oysters, and for the tourists. this beach is packed in the summer and i just can sit there for hours just watching people. it’s like waikiki on acid…..
and in just a few more days, i’ll be eating things like this. oh my gosh…. can’t wait….
and last…. i got a dream!!! a dream as a kid. a dream as an adult. and a dream i think about every day. well today, i took a big step in achieving that dream. it’s going to take a while but i’m moving forward to something i wanted my whole life. i’ll give you a hint. one day in the future, this is going to be my evening view…..
Cherry Tree, Cherry Tree….
good morning. 6:30am tuesday morning. north swell came up. lani’s is the spot. epic!!! got 20 guys out there already and expect 100 by this afternoon. looks 2-4′ and perfect… town is still small but should be picking up later this afternoon. bowls is waist/chest high with 15 guys out. 12 or so at ala moana park. i’m going to get ready for another long day. so many things to do with so little time. 2 more days till my vacation starts so i ain’t complaining…. have a safe day….
cristie brinkley is 54 years old!! holy cow… she was a supermodel when i was in my diapers. and still is to this day… that’s nuts….
and remember cheryl ladd? one of my angels. i mean, one of charlie’s angles. dam, she was beautiful back then and still is now at the ripe age of 56 years old. that’s double nuts… wonder how old charlie is???
**by the way, i’m guessing that both of these beautiful ladies had some type of plastic surgery sometime in their lives. but you know what? like holli says, “whatever works”…..
**and last, heard the cherry blossoms in japan blossomed yesterday. i’m so stoked!!! if you haven’t seen it, you don’t know what your missing out. it’s pure beauty. i seen the cherry blossoms in japan for the past 18 years straight. 18 years of happiness… do you know the song “sakura” or “cherry tree?” when i was a kid, my grandma use to play it on her koto. back then, i was too young to appreciate the old japanese culture. but now, i do. thanks to my grandma, the “cherry tree” song was etched in my mind for my whole life…. and i love it… it makes me happy…. “cherry tree, cherry tree…….” thinking of you grandma….
Cherry Tree Lyrics in English:
Cherry blossoms, cherry blossoms,
Blanketing the countryside,
As far as you can see.
Is it a mist, or clouds?
Fragrant in the morning sun.
Cherry blossoms, cherry blossoms,
Flowers in full bloom.
Cherry blossoms, cherry blossoms,
Across the Spring sky,
As far as you can see.
Is it a mist, or clouds?
Fragrant in the air.
Come now, come,
Let???s look, at last!